Vintage Watches

Vintage Watch Brands We Sell

Our collection showcases exceptional examples from watchmaking's most prestigious houses. Each manufacturer in our inventory has shaped horological history through technical innovation, design breakthroughs, and mechanical excellence that continues to influence modern watchmaking.

From the pioneering dive watches that established underwater timekeeping standards to elegant dress pieces that established standards for sophistication, our selection covers the entire spectrum of vintage watchmaking. We hand-select pieces that represent significant moments throughout each brand’s evolution:

Rolex

The quintessential luxury watch brand, vintage Rolex watches combine remarkable durability with timeless design. The introduction of the waterproof Oyster case in 1926 established Rolex as the pioneer of resilient timepieces that maintained elegance under extreme conditions. The brand's vintage models display a remarkable consistency in design language that has allowed icons like the Submariner and Datejust to remain instantly recognizable across decades.

Popular vintage models:

• Submariner - The archetypal dive watch (1953) that set category standards with references like the gilt-dial 5512 and 5513.
• GMT-Master - The traveler's companion featuring the iconic "Rolex Pepsi" and "Rolex Coke" bezels, with the ref. 1675 being particularly coveted.
• Daytona - The manually-wound chronograph that evolved from relative obscurity to legendary status, especially "Rolex Paul Newman" dial variants.
• Datejust - The versatile classic featuring the signature fluted bezel, cyclops date window, and Jubilee bracelet.
• Cellini - The dress watch line showcasing Rolex's sophisticated side with clean dials and precious metals.
• Oyster Perpetual - The cornerstone collection featuring the revolutionary self-winding system in its purest form.

OMEGA

Dating back to 1848, vintage OMEGA watches have balanced technical proficiency with elegant sophistication. Innovations by the company in horology span from the first moonwatch to the groundbreaking coaxial escapement and innovative antimagnetic technology. OMEGA's vintage collection showcases remarkable variety, from functional watches that made history to refined dress watches that defined mid-century sophistication.

Popular vintage models:

• Speedmaster - The "OMEGA Moonwatch" whose manual-wind caliber 321 passed NASA's brutal testing, with pre-moon references commanding significant premiums.
• Seamaster - A versatile line spanning from the elegant 300 diver to the distinctive "Ploprof" professional models built for saturation diving.
• Constellation - Precision chronometers featuring distinctive "pie-pan" dials and integrated bracelets that influenced watch design for decades.
• Geneve - The accessible collection offering remarkable value while maintaining OMEGA's quality standards and design philosophy.

Cartier

The pioneer of wristwatch design, vintage Cartier watch models showcase the marriage of jewelry expertise and horological innovation. Since creating the Santos in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, Cartier has defined sophisticated elegance through geometric precision and timeless aesthetics. The brand's vintage pieces demonstrate how functional objects can be elevated to wearable art through thoughtful design.

Popular vintage models:

• Tank - The Art Deco masterpiece inspired by Renault tanks of WWI, available in variations like the Louis, Française, and Américaine.
• Santos - The original pilot's watch featuring the distinctive square case with exposed screws that revolutionized watch design.
• Panthère - The 1980s integrated bracelet design that captured the era's bold spirit with its sleek proportions.
• Cougar - The sporty-elegant round case models that balance casual and formal elements.
• Baignoire - The elegant oval designs that translated jewelry concepts into functional timepieces

Patek Philippe

The epitome of traditional Swiss watchmaking, Patek Philippe vintage watches represent the pinnacle of watchmaking artistry. Since 1839, this celebrated Geneva-based master-watchmaker has provided movements finished to standards that far exceed practical requirements.. The vintage Patek Philippe catalog comprises some of the most sought-after references among collectors, particularly complicated pieces that showcase extraordinary technical perfection and achievement.

Popular vintage models:

• Calatrava Ref. 570 - The archetypal dress watch featuring a perfectly proportioned 35-36mm case and clean dial design that has influenced generations of watchmakers.
• Nautilus Ref. 3700 - Gerald Genta's 1976 masterpiece that transformed luxury sports watch design with its distinctive porthole case and integrated bracelet.
• Golden Ellipse Ref. 3548 - The distinctive oval case inspired by the golden ratio, demonstrating Patek's mastery of unconventional case shapes.
• Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3448 - The first self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch, showcasing Patek's mastery of complicated mechanisms.

Audemars Piguet

The independent manufacturer from Le Brassus, vintage AP watches demonstrate some of watchmaking's most forward-thinking designs. Since 1875, AP has created groundbreaking mechanisms often produced in extremely limited quantities, making vintage examples particularly rare. The brand forever changed luxury watchmaking in 1972 when Gerald Genta's revolutionary Royal Oak design introduced the concept of the luxury steel sports watch with its distinctive octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet, and tapisserie dial pattern.

Popular vintage models:

• Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST - The "A-series" original steel luxury sports watch that created an entirely new market segment and saved the company during the quartz crisis.
• Jules Audemars - Sophisticated dress watches showcasing exceptional movement architecture and hand-finishing techniques.
• Perpetual Calendar - Some of the thinnest and most elegant calendar mechanisms, including the revolutionary Ref. 5516 with leap year indication.
• Chronographs - Rare timing instruments featuring some of watchmaking's most beautifully finished column-wheel movements

Tudor

Rolex's sister brand, vintage Tudor watches offer excellent quality with more accessible prices. Established in 1946 by Hans Wilsdorf, Tudor manufactured robust watches by using Rolex case designs fitted with third-party movements to reach a broader audience of buyers. Vintage Tudor watches command substantial market appreciation since collectors value their genuine heritage, incredible build, and historical value, particularly the models used by military organizations worldwide.

Popular vintage models:

• Submariner Ref. 7928 - Robust diving watches often supplied to national navies, including the distinctive "Snowflake" hand models used by the French Marine Nationale.
• Oyster Prince Date - Daily-wear timepieces with Rolex-derived case architecture and reliable movements.
• Chronograph "Monte Carlo" Ref. 7169 - Distinctive timing instruments with colorful dial designs that have developed cult status.
• Advisor - Innovative mechanical alarm watches demonstrating Tudor's technical capabilities.

Longines

With a heritage spanning nearly two centuries, vintage Longines timepieces demonstrate exceptional movement engineering wrapped in elegant designs. Throughout the mid-20th century, Longines created remarkable calibers housed in distinctive cases that balanced technical innovation with refined aesthetics. The brand's chronographs from this period are particularly celebrated for their beautiful movement architecture and exceptional quality-to-value ratio.

Popular vintage models:

• Flagship Ref. 3508 - The prestige line featuring chronometer-grade movements in elegant cases.
• Conquest Ref. 9024 - Sophisticated sports watches with distinctive cases and high-performance calibers.
• Ultra-Chron - Groundbreaking high-frequency movements operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour for remarkable accuracy.
• 13ZN Chronograph - Models featuring one of watchmaking's most beautiful column-wheel chronograph movements.

Tissot

Innovating since 1853, vintage Tissot watches deliver true Swiss quality at reasonable prices. Tissot pioneered new concepts over the years while maintaining exceptional standards. The brand's vintage models have distinctive designs and robust mechanisms that are excellent represent excellent entry points for serious vintage collecting.

Popular vintage models:

• Seastar Ref. 44646 - Versatile sports watches with clean aesthetics and robust construction.
• Visodate Ref. 784-2 - Classic automatic calendar watches with elegant proportions.
• PR516 Ref. 44622 - Sporty watch with ties to the James Bond movies.
• Navigator Ref. 44646 - Dive watch with a practical quickset date pushing crown

Explore Our Vintage Watch Collections by Gender

Our vintage selection encompasses diverse styles to accommodate different preferences and wrist sizes. While modern watches often follow strict gender categories, vintage timepieces present more fluid boundaries, with many collectors choosing pieces based on personal taste rather than traditional designations. We've organized our collection to help you navigate options typically associated with men's and women's styles, though we encourage exploring both categories.

Vintage Men's Watches

Case sizes typically ranging from 34mm to 42mm characterize the traditional timepieces in our collection of vintage watches for men, with designs originally intended for professional or sporting applications. These sophisticated instruments often emphasize legibility and functionality with bold markers and practical complications. Our selection includes iconic models that defined their categories - from the Rolex GMT-Master created for Pan Am pilots to traverse time zones to the OMEGA Speedmaster Professional that accompanied astronauts during lunar missions.

Men's vintage watches have traced an evolution from utilitarian tools to style statements. Early models from the 1950s showcase a minimalist aesthetic with slim profiles, while those of the 1970s embrace bolder geometries typical of that decade's design revolution. Explore our collection for the perfect balance of historical significance and individual expression, whether it's a refined Patek Philippe Calatrava or a rugged Tudor Submariner with military provenance.

Vintage Women's Watches

The delicate blend of jewelry design with mechanical precision defines the charm of vintage watches for women in our carefully curated collection. Typically measuring between 20mm and 31mm, these timepieces often feature creative case shapes, intricate detailing, and occasionally integrated gemstones. Our selection spans from elegant evening pieces to practical daily companions that maintain feminine proportions while offering reliable timekeeping.

The evolution of women's watches reveals changing attitudes toward feminine style. Earlier decades emphasized decorative elements, while later periods introduced increasing technical sophistication alongside distinctive design. Iconic examples include the Rolex Lady-Datejust, which translated the crown's signature aesthetic into refined proportions, and the rectangular Cartier Tank, whose geometric precision made it a favorite of fashion pioneers like Jackie Kennedy and Princess Diana. Browse our selection to discover the perfect expression of vintage feminine elegance.

Vintage Watch Prices

The vintage watch market offers incredible range across various price points. These mechanical treasures derive their value from their historical provenance, rarity, and condition, with many models appreciating dramatically with the passage of time, particularly limited or low production pieces from prestigious brands.

Our curated selection spans multiple price ranges to accommodate varied collection and investment thresholds:

Under $2K

An excellent entry point for beginning collectors and enthusiasts:

• Tissot PR516 Ref. 44622 - 1960s models with distinctive cases and reliable movements.
• Longines Ultra-Chron Ref. 7950 - Early precision timepieces with high-frequency movements.
• OMEGA Geneve Ref. 136.041 - Entry-level dress watches with clean designs and manual calibers.

$2K-$5K

This accessible range offers solid value from established manufacturers:

• Tissot Seastar Ref. 44646 - 1960s automatic models with clean dials and robust construction.
• Longines Flagship Ref. 3508 - Early 1960s dress watches with quality calibers and sector dials.
• OMEGA Geneve Ref. 166.0163 - Clean designs with reliable caliber 565 movements.
• Tudor Oyster Prince Ref. 7909 - Rolex case quality with dependable movements.
• Tissot Chronograph T.12 - Entry-level timing instruments with distinctive racing style.
• OMEGA Constellation Ref. 168.005 - "Pie-pan" dial models with observatory-certified movements.

$5K-$7K

Mid-tier investments with enhanced pedigree:

• OMEGA Seamaster 300 Ref. 165.024 - Early professional divers from the mid-1960s.
• Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1002 - Entry-level Rolex models with simple elegance.
• Cartier Tank Must de Cartier - The accessible entry point to the iconic rectangular design.
• Cartier Santos Ref. 1172961 - Early automatic examples with classic square case design.
• Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Ref. 250.8.86 - The innovative reversible case created for polo players.

$7K-$10K

Premium vintage timepieces with collector significance:

• Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 - 36mm models with fluted bezels and jubilee bracelets from the 1960s.
• OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Ref. 145.022 - Post-moon landing models with caliber 861.
• Tudor "Snowflake" Submariner Ref. 9411 - Highly collectible divers from the 1970s.
• Tudor Submariner Ref. 7016 - Professional dive watches with distinctive "snowflake" hands.
• Audemars Piguet Ref. 5043BA - Ultra-thin dress watches with exceptional caliber 2003 movements.

$10K-$15K

Exceptional pieces from prestigious makers:

• Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 - Matte dial examples from the late 1960s with exclamation point markers.
• Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675 - Early 1970s models with "Pepsi" bezels and matte dials.
• Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3484 - Gold case dress watches with manual caliber 27-460 movements.
• OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Ref. 145.012 - Last of the caliber 321 models before the NASA-approved redesign.

$15K-$20K

Significant investments with historical importance:

• Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 - "Red Sub" models from 1969-1973 with the distinctive red text designation.
• OMEGA Speedmaster Ref. 105.003 - "Ed White" pre-moon landing references with straight lugs.
• Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1 - First-generation integrated bracelet sports watches in stainless steel.

Over $20K

The pinnacle of vintage collecting:

• Rolex Daytona Ref. 6239 - "Paul Newman" exotic dial variants with distinctive art deco details.
• Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655 - "Freccione" models with distinctive orange 24-hour hand and straight seconds hand.
• Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 - Perpetual calendar chronographs representing complicated watchmaking's highest achievement.
• Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1 - First-generation integrated bracelet sports watches in stainless steel.
• Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402BC - Rare white gold early examples with specialized dials.
• Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST - Early "A-series" steel models with AP logo at 6 o'clock.
• Cartier Crash - The avant-garde 1967 asymmetrical design inspired by Dalí's melting watches.
• Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 - Four-line SCOC text models with exceptional provenance and box/papers.

These price ranges reflect approximate values and fluctuate based on particular references, condition, original components, and market trends. Presence of original boxes, papers, and documented history tend to command high premiums over similar examples without these elements.

When evaluating vintage watches as investments, originality remains the primary consideration. Pieces with unpolished cases, original dials without restoration, and factory-correct hands typically offer better appreciation potential than heavily restored examples.

Expert Opinion

"Vintage watches offer the perfect mix of mechanical expertise, design heritage, and tangible history. Vintage watches embody the finest in horology craftsmanship during an era when watches were considered to be a necessary tool. Age isn’t just what distinguishes exceptional vintage models but also the preservation of their original parts, genuine patina, and documented stories that each piece carries.

Our collectors consistently note that vintage timepieces offer an unmatched connection to pivotal moments in both watchmaking and world history. From the Rolex Submariner that pioneered underwater timekeeping to the OMEGA Speedmaster that witnessed mankind's greatest adventure, these mechanical marvels serve as both wearable treasures and tangible links to our shared past. Their enduring appeal transcends fashion, making them both meaningful heirlooms and sound investments."

- Paul Altieri, Founder & CEO of Bob's Watches

Why Choose Us

Selecting Bob's Watches for your vintage watch ensures access to meticulously authenticated treasures backed by unparalleled expertise. Our knowledge and expertise allows us to curate standout pieces that possess historical integrity while also offering reliable performance. We understand the fine distinctions that separate ordinary watches from stand-out investments, from correct hand styles to period-correct dial configurations.

Our transparent pricing model eliminates traditional industry markups, providing exceptional value for these horological treasures. Each vintage watch undergoes comprehensive authentication by our expert watchmakers, ensuring mechanical reliability without compromising originality. This commitment to authenticity and service excellence has established Bob's Watches as the trusted destination for discerning collectors seeking timepieces that represent both exceptional craftsmanship and sound investment potential.

Sell Your Vintage Watch

Transform your timepiece into new possibilities with Bob's Watches. Our specialized expertise in vintage horology ensures your treasured watch receives the precise valuation it deserves. We understand that every vintage watch carries both sentimental and monetary value, and our streamlined process honors this through our transparent evaluation and fair market compensation. Start today and visit our "Sell Luxury Watch" page to experience the difference our expertise offers.

We recognize that parting with a vintage timepiece often carries significant personal meaning. Our team approaches each transaction with sensitivity and respect, guiding you through every step with professional expertise and clear communication. Whether you're adjusting your collection or seeking funds for your next horological acquisition, Bob's Watches provides the knowledge, integrity, and efficiency that have made us the industry's most trusted name in pre-owned luxury watches.

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes a vintage watch valuable?

Vintage watches gain value from brand reputation, condition, and originality. Limited editions, rare models, and those with documented provenance or significant historical context typically appreciate over time.

How do I know if a vintage watch is authentic?

Each vintage timepiece at Bob’s Watches undergoes expert authentication, verifying its original components, serial numbers, and movement authenticity. We ensure the watch maintains both its mechanical integrity and historical accuracy.

Can I wear a vintage watch every day?

Many vintage watches, like the Rolex Submariner, are built for daily wear, while more delicate models are better suited for occasional use to preserve their condition. Regular servicing helps maintain their functionality over time.

How do I care for my vintage watch?

Keep your watch clean, dry, and store it in a safe, cool place when not in use. Regular professional servicing and avoiding extreme conditions will help maintain its value and longevity.

Are vintage watches a good investment?

Vintage watches from iconic brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe often appreciate in value due to their rarity, quality, and historical significance. They are considered tangible assets that can provide long-term returns.