Patek Philippe has long been considered one of the most expensive, and perhaps the most prestigious, among the world’s luxury watch brands. However until fairly recently, it was never exactly fashionable or trendy in the same way as Richard Mille, nor was it considered flashy enough for those who really wanted to display their wealth. The famed watchmaker’s decision to all but ignore trends and fads seems to have paid off however, as certain Patek Philippe watches have lately become both extremely desirable and virtually unobtainable. This started with the stainless steel Nautilus, but has more recently extended to include other models too, most notably the Aquanaut.
Nautilus vs Aquanaut: Increased Demand for the Aquanaut
Traditionally, these groovier nautical-inspired models, the first designed by the legendary Gerald Genta and launched in 1976, were cheaper and less coveted by Patek Philippe enthusiasts. They represented a step up from entry level versions of the Calatrava perhaps, but not on a par with Patek’s complications or legacy pieces. After all, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut was only introduced in 1997.
However, over the past several years, the Nautilus has steadily acquired an influential following, among them the likes of celebrities including Brad Pitt, Jay-Z, and Jason Statham. Lately, Virgil Abloh – Kanye West’s longtime collaborator and one of the hottest fashion designers on the planet, joined the club with a custom blacked-out version that suddenly gave the Patek Philippe Nautilus some serious street cred, which has trickled down to the similarly sporty Aquanaut collection.
Patek Nautilus: The Birkin Bag of Watches
This led no less a publication than the Financial Times to declare that the Nautilus is now the “Birkin bag of watches,” referring to the world’s most coveted Hermès handbag, famous for its long waiting list. Meanwhile, the wait list for a stainless steel Nautilus – the cult favorite – is now said to be eight years long according to British GQ, while prices for recently produced pre-owned models are going for a hefty premium over retail, a phenomenon that once only ever occurred with Rolex.
Now the Aquanaut, which historically has been far easier to obtain than the Nautilus, is attracting some of the same glamour. Drake has recently been seen wearing an Aquanaut Chronograph Reference 5968A on an orange rubber strap. Introduced at Baselworld in 2018, it retailed for $45,360 for those who could get their hands on one.
Nautilus vs Aquanaut: Comparing Patek’s Sport Models
Patek Philippe, renowned for its exquisite timepieces, offers two iconic collections that have captivated watch enthusiasts worldwide: the Nautilus and the Aquanaut. Both lines embody the brand’s commitment to precision, luxury, and timeless design. While sharing some aesthetic DNA, these collections each possess unique characteristics that set them apart in the world of haute horlogerie. Let’s delve into the distinctive features and notable references of the Nautilus and Aquanaut, exploring what makes each collection a coveted choice among discerning collectors.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Models
The Nautilus, introduced in 1976, revolutionized the luxury sports watch category with its distinctive porthole-inspired design. The original reference 3700/1A, now highly sought after by collectors, set the standard for the collection’s elegant yet sporty aesthetic. Current production models like the 5711/1A (recently discontinued) and 5712/1A continue to be incredibly popular, featuring the signature horizontally embossed dial and integrated bracelet.
The Nautilus line has expanded to include various complications and materials. The 5990/1A combines a chronograph with a travel time function, showcasing Patek Philippe’s technical prowess. For those seeking precious metals, the 5980/1R in rose gold offers a luxurious twist on the classic design. The ladies’ models, such as the 7118/1A, provide elegant options with smaller case sizes and diamond-set bezels.
Complications within the Nautilus range from simple date displays to more complex features. The 5712/1A incorporates a power reserve indicator and moon phase, while the 5740/1G, part of the coveted Grand Complications series, houses a perpetual calendar. These diverse offerings demonstrate the versatility of the Nautilus design, accommodating both straightforward time-only models and sophisticated horological achievements.
For watch enthusiasts seeking detailed information on specifications, pricing, and individual models, we recommend exploring our comprehensive Patek Philippe Nautilus review. This in-depth analysis covers everything from movement details to market trends, providing invaluable insights for both seasoned collectors and those new to the world of luxury timepieces.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Models
Launched in 1997, the Aquanaut collection offers a modern interpretation of the luxury sports watch. The inaugural reference 5060A introduced the distinctive “tropical” strap and embossed dial pattern, setting a new standard for contemporary elegance. Current production models like the 5167A-001 continue this tradition, featuring a sleek stainless steel case and the iconic checkerboard dial motif.
The Aquanaut line has evolved to include various sizes and complications. The 5168G, available in white gold with vibrant dial colors, caters to those seeking a bolder aesthetic. For ladies, the 5067A series offers smaller case sizes without compromising on style. The collection also includes travel-friendly options like the 5164A, which features a dual time zone complication.
Patek Philippe has expanded the Aquanaut range to include chronograph models, enhancing its appeal to sports watch enthusiasts. The 5968A combines the collection’s signature design with a flyback chronograph function, demonstrating the versatility of the Aquanaut aesthetic. Limited editions, such as the 5650G Advanced Research, showcase Patek’s commitment to horological innovation within the collection.
The Aquanaut’s ability to balance casual elegance with technical sophistication has made it a favorite among younger collectors and seasoned enthusiasts alike. From the robust 5167/1A with its integrated steel bracelet to the refined 5267/200A featuring diamond-set bezels, the collection offers a wide array of options. We invite you to read our comprehensive Patek Philippe Aquanaut review for a more detailed exploration of the Aquanaut line, including an in-depth analysis of individual references and market insights.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut vs Nautilus: Who is the Winner?
The Patek Philippe Nautilus and Aquanaut collections represent two distinct interpretations of the luxury sports watch concept, each with its own strengths and appeal. The Nautilus, with its longer history and iconic Genta-designed porthole case, embodies classic luxury sports watch design. Its pros include its timeless aesthetic, robust construction, and high collectibility. However, the extreme demand has led to long waiting lists and inflated prices in the secondary market, which may be seen as a con for some buyers.
On the other hand, the Aquanaut offers a more contemporary take on the luxury sports watch. Its modern design, comfortable rubber strap options, and generally better availability are significant advantages. The Aquanaut also tends to be more accessible in terms of price, making it an attractive option for younger collectors or those new to the brand. However, it lacks the historical significance of the Nautilus and may not have the same level of prestige among traditional watch enthusiasts.
When deciding between the two, consider your personal style and intended use. If you prefer a classic design with a rich history and don’t mind the potential wait or higher price point, the Nautilus might be the better choice. Its versatility allows it to transition seamlessly from casual to formal settings. If you lean towards a more modern aesthetic, appreciate comfort for daily wear, and want a watch that’s slightly more under the radar, the Aquanaut could be the ideal pick.
Ultimately, both collections offer exceptional quality, precision, and the prestige of the Patek Philippe brand. Your decision may come down to personal preference in design, availability, and budget. Whichever you choose, you’ll be investing in a piece of horological excellence that represents the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking. For those still undecided, we recommend trying on both models if possible, as the experience of wearing each watch can often be the deciding factor in choosing between these two iconic Patek Philippe collections.
