Whenever we talk about luxury watches, there are some brands that always come up quickly. Rolex would likely be the first name mentioned. Patek Philippe is sure to be hot on its heels. Brands like Omega, Longines, and Tissot are sure to follow soon after. But where would Audemars Piguet fall on that list? Considering Audemars Piguet is, along with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, regarded as one of the "Big Three", or "Holy Trinity" of Haute Horlogerie, AP, like VC, is one of those brands that has retained a true sense of exclusivity.

Audemars Piguet Key Details

• Founded in 1875.
• Headquarters in Le Brassus, Switzerland.
• Remains an independent family-owned business.
• Created the first minute-repeating movement for wristwatches in 1892.
• Developed the first skeleton watch in 1934
• Created the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1957.
• The brand's most famous watch is the Royal Oak.
• Member of the "Holy Trinity" of watchmaking.

What Makes Audemars Piguet Unique in the Luxury Watch Market?

Audemars Piguet occupies an interesting position within the luxury watch industry. How is it possible for a brand to walk that line between international celebrity and family secret? Fans of the AP would mention it before Rolex, before Patek, before Omega, Hublot, Richard Mille, and all the rest. In fact, for the true die-hards, there is only AP.

Perhaps this strange, almost dichotomous character has come about through a unique series of events. Perhaps the role Audemars Piguet plays within the wider watchmaking landscape is to thank for it. You see, Patek Philippe is a name associated with an idea of luxury more than it is any particular model. Yes, the Nautilus is mega-famous. Yes, the Calatrava is a classic. But just uttering those four syllables can conjure an image of luxury beyond compare.

Audemars Piguet History & Popularity

When learn about the history of Audemars Piguet, it does not seem feasible to know about the brand without first learning of the AP Royal Oak. As such, the brand's most enduring icon acts as a gatekeeper to a wondrous world of watchmaking wizardry. Beyond the Royal Oak collection (which we'll cover in detail below), Audemars Piguet offers ladies' watches, concept watches, classically-styled timepieces, the new, highly controversial Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 series, and more. The current collection's diversity may come as a surprise to newcomers, but AP has been in the watchmaking game a long time, and a potted history of success and near-calamity is to thank for a bank of experience rivaled by few other marques in our industry.

Founded in 1875 by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, the brand established its reputation toward the end of the 19th century by devising award-winning movements that buoyed the brand's expansion throughout the western world. However, these rosy beginnings would soon be forgotten during a period of metaphorical and literal tragedy. The "Panic of 1907" saw the New York Stock exchange fall by almost 50% over a three-week period. It badly damaged AP's performance in the American market. World War I broke out in 1914, and following the fall of Russian Tsar Nicholas II, the brand's Russian interests were all but wiped out.

AP diversified its manufacturing interests during WWII in order to survive. Additionally, a loan of CHF 15,000 from the local chamber of trade helped propel the marque through a troubled period. But better days were yet to come. The 1950s saw a resurgence in global optimism, and under the stewardship of Georges Golay, an accomplished businessman, the brand recovered. It was during this time that the Le Brassus manufacture was expanded. The brand still calls this location home today.

Audemars Piguet Models Reviewed

Audemars Piguet 11.59

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 series represents a bold departure from the brand's traditional offerings, primarily known for the Royal Oak line. Launched as a testament to the brand's craftsmanship and innovative spirit, the Code 11.59 blends a classic round case with a complex, skeletonized movement visible through the sapphire crystal dial, appealing to those who appreciate the artistry of mechanical watchmaking. Its design is both modern and timeless, featuring a unique octagonal middle case sandwiched between a round bezel and caseback, which offers a fresh perspective within the luxury watch landscape. Critics and enthusiasts alike have praised the Code 11.59 for its audacious design and technical excellence, making it a noteworthy addition to the Audemars Piguet family, though it also faces challenges in stepping out from the shadow of the immensely popular Royal Oak.

Audemars Piguet Huitieme

The Audemars Piguet Huitieme represents a captivating blend of traditional elegance and sporting prowess, often overshadowed by the more famous Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore lines. This model features a distinctive tapisserie dial and a robust case, underscored by the classic integrated bracelet, exuding a sense of refined athleticism. The Huitieme is equipped with a reliable automatic movement, ensuring precision and durability, making it suitable for both formal and casual settings. With its seamless integration of style and function, the Huitieme stands out as a testament to Audemars Piguet's commitment to excellence across diverse design philosophies.

Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars

The Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars collection is named after one of the brand's founders, epitomizing elegance and sophisticated watchmaking. This line is renowned for its ultra-thin designs and the incorporation of complex complications like tourbillons and perpetual calendars, catering to purists who admire technical mastery combined with understated aesthetics. The watches in this series typically feature a round case and a clear, uncluttered dial that emphasizes readability and classical beauty. The Jules Audemars collection stands as a tribute to the heritage and craftsmanship of Audemars Piguet, appealing to enthusiasts who value timeless design and exceptional mechanical ingenuity.

Audemars Piguet Millenary

The Audemars Piguet Millenary collection showcases a unique approach to watch design, featuring an elliptical case and an off-centered dial that offers a distinct, contemporary aesthetic. This series is notable for its exposed, intricately designed movements that allow wearers to witness the mechanical artistry directly through the front of the watch. The layout is carefully crafted to enhance the three-dimensional aspect of the movement, creating a striking visual depth. The Millenary line appeals to those who seek a watch that combines innovative design with traditional watchmaking, making it a standout choice for collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate watches that are both visually and technically compelling.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore takes the iconic design of the original Royal Oak to new heights with its bolder, more robust aesthetic. Known for its oversized case and the use of high-tech materials such as ceramic and titanium, the Offshore variant pushes the envelope in terms of both design and functionality. It features a distinctive Méga Tapisserie dial, which enhances its sporty look, and is often equipped with chronograph functions, making it popular among those who appreciate a watch that combines technical prowess with a powerful presence. The Royal Oak Offshore has garnered a dedicated following, solidifying its place as a staple in the luxury sports watch category, favored for both its high performance and commanding style.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is an emblematic model that revolutionized the luxury watch industry with its introduction in 1972. Characterized by its octagonal bezel secured by visible hexagonal screws and its distinct tapisserie dial, the Royal Oak blends technical refinement with a uniquely robust aesthetic. This iconic timepiece is highly regarded for its pioneering role in creating the luxury sports watch category, making it a coveted piece among collectors and enthusiasts who value both history and craftsmanship in their horological pursuits.

Entry-level AP Watches: Which Audemars Piguet Model Should I Buy First?

When searching for your first AP watch, scouring the pre-owned market makes perfect sense. There are a great many tempting models available but be warned; prices are somewhat daunting. However, Audemars Piguet is a brand with the reputation to back up the numbers. There are plenty of diverse options within the catalog that cater to the first-timer and the seasoned collector. Let's look at some of the stand-out models from the most popular families in the current catalog.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin Reference 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01

The first Audemars Piguet from 1972 (reference 5402) had a retail price of CHF 3,650, which was seen as a stupendous sum for a steel watch in those days. According to the Swiss Franc's inflation since that would equate to roughly CHF 9,650 in 2021. In light of that, perhaps the modern prices (especially given the machining and mechanical advancements) are a little more palatable. This model, reference 15202ST.OO.1240ST.01 is one of the closest models to the original Royal Oak in the current collection.

It measures 39mm wide and just 8.9mm thick. The rich blue dial is decorated with a "Petite Tapisserie" pattern, evoking the spirit of the ref. 5402 but turns things on its head with the small squares that make up the dial indented rather than raised. A color-matched date keeps things subtle and marks this as one for the ages.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Reference 26480TI.OO.A027CA.01

The Offshore chronograph was designed to celebrate the Royal Oak's 20th anniversary. It was eventually released in 1993 with its designer, Emmanuel Gueit, choosing to reference the original Genta model in many ways but with a thoroughly larger and more modern twist. The first Offshore model was 42mm wide -  3mm wider than the very first Royal Oak.

This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Reference 26480TI.OO.A027CA.01 has the classic 42mm diameter but is slightly slimmer than some of its peers, coming in at a palatable 12.9mm thick. It is about as humble an AP Offshore as you can find within the catalog and is the perfect sports watch to be worn with casual attire.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie Reference 26397BC.OO.D321CR.04

Audemars Piguet's show-stopping Code 11.59 collection turned every head in the industry when released in early 2019. The past was referenced subtly with this new family, with the octagonal case middle nodding to the famous Royal Oak bezel. Perhaps the loudest criticism of the AP Code 11.59 range when it launched was that the dials did not live up to the expertly executed cases.

Well, the same cannot be said of the Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie Reference 26397BC.OO.D321CR.04. Here, a stunning dial design takes center stage, each one a custom creation of artist Anita Porchet. With many of the Code 11.59 collection commanding fearsome prices, expect to pay six-figures for one of these beauties.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked Reference 26612TI.OO.D002CA.01

When it comes to the AP Concept department, there is one rule: go big, or go home. These are the boldest, meanest, in-your-face kids on the block, and they take no prisoners. Intriguingly complicated movements, topped by dizzying displays, sit in humongous housings and promise you a huge amount of grunt for your gold.

This one, reference 26612TI.OO.D002CA.01, features a tourbillon, a chronograph, and a depth-laden dial, wrapped up in a dimensionally unforgiving case that measures 44mm across and 16.1mm thick. Thankfully, this wrist giant is water-resistant to 100 meters, so if you decide to go for a swim with a watch worth the same as a small jet plane on your wrist, AP has you covered.

Audemars Piguet [Re]master 01Reference 6595SR.OO.A032VE.01

One of the latest additions to the AP catalog is the Audemars Piguet [Re]master 01Reference 6595SR.OO.A032VE.01. With this piece, Audemars Piguet stepped right back into its past, reputedly drawing inspiration from a classical chronograph from the 1940s.

This model opens a new era for the brand, showing its willingness to surprise its audience while staying true to its historic roots. As a strictly limited production of 500 pieces, you're unlikely to see many of these out in the wild. At a shade over $50,000, they won't be around for long so if you find one available, it would be best to act swiftly before they all become a part of someone’s permanent collection.

Popular Comparisons

Audemars Piguet vs Rolex

When comparing Audemars Piguet vs Rolex, watch enthusiasts delve into a debate between two titans of luxury horology, each brand bringing its unique heritage and strengths. Audemars Piguet, renowned for its intricate craftsmanship and the prestigious Royal Oak series, appeals to those who value innovation and complex watchmaking. On the other hand, Rolex is synonymous with enduring quality, reliability, and a classic aesthetic that arguably offers better brand recognition and a more conservative investment. Rolex watches are celebrated for their robustness and are often seen as a more accessible entry point into the world of luxury timepieces. In contrast, Audemars Piguet tends to attract collectors looking for exclusivity and avant-garde design. Both brands hold significant prestige in the watchmaking world, making the choice between them a reflection of personal taste and lifestyle rather than a matter of quality.

Audemars Piguet vs Patek

In the high echelons of watchmaking, the comparison between Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe touches on two distinct philosophies of luxury horology. Audemars Piguet is celebrated for its bold approach and the iconic Royal Oak series, which revolutionized the luxury watch industry with its distinctive octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. This brand often appeals to those who appreciate a blend of modern aesthetic and traditional craftsmanship. On the other hand, Patek Philippe is revered for its classical designs and exceptional complications, embodying an ethos of understated elegance and a legacy of watchmaking that caters to purists and connoisseurs. Patek Philippe's commitment to perpetuating haute horlogerie is evident in their meticulous attention to detail and the rarity of their timepieces, making them highly sought after in the collector's market. Choosing between these two is not just about selecting a watch; it's about deciding which legacy and craft resonate more with one's personal identity and horological values.

AP Watch vs Hublot

When considering Audemars Piguet (AP) and Hublot, you're looking at two brands that stand out in the luxury watch market for their distinctive designs and technical prowess, but cater to somewhat different tastes. Audemars Piguet is a pioneer of the luxury sports watch genre. Hublot, on the other hand, is known for its philosophy of "fusion art." It combines unusual materials like ceramic, carbon fiber, and rubber in ways that challenge traditional watchmaking norms. Hublot watches tend to be more avant-garde and flamboyant, making them a favorite among those who prefer modern, eye-catching pieces that make a statement. Both brands offer exceptional craftsmanship but cater to different aspects of luxury watch enthusiasm -AP leaning towards classical elegance with a twist, and Hublot towards innovative, contemporary boldness.

Piaget vs Audemars Piguet

Piaget and Audemars Piguet represent two highly esteemed facets of luxury watchmaking with distinct focal points. Piaget excels in the realm of ultra-thin watches, showcasing their mastery in merging sleek elegance with technical sophistication, often embellished with exquisite gem-setting that appeals to lovers of fine jewelry as well. Audemars Piguet, famed for its iconic Royal Oak series, emphasizes robust design combined with intricate watchmaking, appealing to those who appreciate a bold, architectural aesthetic in their timepieces. Both brands command respect in the horology community, yet cater to different preferences in style and watchmaking philosophy.