Rare OMEGA Watches: The Most Collectible Models


When it comes to luxury watches, you will frequently find that it is vintage models that are considered to be the most collectible, which also means that they can often be the most rare and expensive. Concerning vintage OMEGA watches, a similar scenario exists and certain incredibly rare examples have been known to sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars, and some have even been known to break the million-dollar mark. This, of course, is not always the case for rare OMEGA watches. There are also a number of modern models that are highly collectible.

However, not all vintage OMEGA watches are worth a fortune. In fact, some vintage models rank among the most affordable OMEGA watch options from the brand that are currently available, and these budget-friendly models make excellent points of entry into OMEGA ownership. With that in mind, there is one particular vintage OMEGA watch that is almost always considered collectible, and even the most beat-up and inauspicious examples are generally still worth a decent chunk of change. Enter the OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch.

Vintage OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch

The vintage OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch models with Cal. 321 movements are highly sought-after among collectors due to their historical significance and rarity. In any detailed OMEGA Speedmaster review, these watches, featuring the legendary Caliber 321, were integral to OMEGA's role in space exploration and the Apollo missions. References like the 2915 and 2998 are particularly rare, representing the earliest iterations of the Speedmaster. Models such as the 105.002 and 105.003, known as the "Ed White," hold immense value due to their connection to NASA's astronaut programs. The 105.012 and 145.012, which were worn during the Apollo 11 mission, solidify their status as iconic, collectible timepieces. Collectors cherish these watches for their unique design, historical relevance, and the now-discontinued Cal. 321 movement, which adds to their exclusivity.

Vintage OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch w/ Cal. 321 Movements

  • Reference 2915 (circa 1957 - 1959)
  • Reference 2998 (circa 1959 - 1963)
  • Reference 105.002 (circa 1962 - 1964)
  • Reference 105.003 (circa 1964 - 1969)
  • Reference 105.012 (circa 1964 - 1968)
  • Reference 145.012 (circa 1967 - 1969)

Rarest OMEGA Watches

Vintage Omega Watches Speedmaster Moonwatch

OMEGA is easily one of the most famous luxury watch manufacturers in the world, and the brand is one of the very few Swiss watch companies that could truly be considered a household name. Known for everything from the James Bond OMEGA watch to being the Official Olympic Timekeeper, OMEGA has a long and rich history that dates all the way back to 1848, and the brand boasts one of the largest and most diverse back catalogs of any luxury watch manufacturer.

A big part of the reason why OMEGA has managed to endure throughout the years is due to the fact that the brand has been able to adapt to the ever-changing times. During the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s and 1980s, increased competition from Asian-made timepieces with quartz movements caused a massive upheaval in the Swiss watch industry, and countless historic mechanical watch manufacturers went bankrupt or were acquired and consolidated by large financial holdings companies.

OMEGA was one of the earliest Swiss brands to embrace the then-new quartz movement technology, and this willingness to adapt to the times has been a trait that has defined the brand for the last several decades. Consequently, OMEGA has produced an astonishingly wide variety of timepieces throughout the years, and vintage OMEGA watches can take on countless different shapes and forms. Some models are entirely classic and traditional, while others offer unique designs that are entirely emblematic of the era in which they were produced, which could make a number of examples more difficult to find on the secondary market. These rare OMEGA watches are great pieces for any serious collector or watch investor.

Vintage Doesn't Always Mean Expensive

Vintage Omega Watch Speedmaster Ed White

Due to this diversity in models, an incredibly wide range of values exists when it comes to the prices of vintage OMEGA watches on the open market. Those crafted from precious metals will always be worth a decent amount (at an absolute minimum, they will never be worth less than the value of their raw materials), and some of the best vintage OMEGA watches of rare or highly collectible references can easily be worth more than six figures.

There does exist somewhat of a price floor beyond which you aren't likely to find any models available for sale. Simply put, due to the high quality of OMEGA watches and the general notoriety of the brand itself, there will always be a buyer if prices are low enough. With that in mind, on the low end of the price spectrum, you can often find certain vintage OMEGA watches for less than $1,000 - which represents a phenomenal value proposition considering you are getting a vintage timepiece from one of the world’s most celebrated manufacturers.

Which Vintage Models Are The Most Collectible OMEGA Watches?

Vintage Omega Watch Ed White Speedmaster Moonwatch Cal 321 Movement

When it comes to collecting vintage watches, seldom are there any blanket rules and nearly every general guideline comes with its own list of caveats and exceptions. For example, a vintage OMEGA Seamaster dress watch is one of the most affordable vintage OMEGA models currently available on the pre-owned market. However, a vintage OMEGA Seamaster dive watch can easily be worth more than $10k.

Additionally, while some vintage OMEGA dive watches like the Seamaster 300 ref. CK2913 (the brand’s very first purpose-built diver from 1957) can easily be worth values in excess of $20,000, other vintage OMEGA dive watches such as the Seamaster 120 typically trade hands for values that are less than 1/10th of that. Similarly, while vintage OMEGA dress watches are generally rather affordable, one of the most expensive OMEGA watches ever sold was a vintage dress watch from 1947 that was fitted with a prototype tourbillon, and that particular example brought in more than $1.4 million at an auction in 2017.

Despite the numerous inconsistencies and exceptions concerning the collectability of vintage timepieces, one blanket rule that almost always remains true is that OMEGA Speedmaster vintage watches consistently rank among the most desirable and collectible of the brand's timepieces (vintage or modern). Additionally, among the numerous vintage Speedmaster references, it is the very earliest models - the ones fitted with the legendary Caliber 321 movement - that are consistently regarded as the rarest, the most desirable, and generally the most expensive.

Which Modern OMEGA Watches Are Most Collectible?

Omega Snoopy

Several modern OMEGA watches have gained collectible status due to their unique designs, limited production, and connections to significant cultural or historical moments. Models like the Speedmaster Professional Snoopy Editions, the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, and the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon are particularly sought-after for their exclusivity and craftsmanship. Additionally, watches like the Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black and the Speedmaster Ultraman have captured the attention of collectors with their innovative materials and nostalgic design elements. These modern OMEGA timepieces represent a blend of technical innovation and enduring style, making them highly prized in the watch community.

OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (Snoopy Editions)

The OMEGA Snoopy Editions, particularly the Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award, have become highly collectible among watch enthusiasts. These models pay tribute to OMEGA's role in the Apollo 13 mission and NASA's Snoopy Award, given for excellence in contributing to space missions. With their playful yet iconic design, these watches feature a depiction of the beloved Peanuts character, Snoopy, adding a unique charm to the Speedmaster line. The limited production numbers, coupled with their space exploration heritage, make them extremely sought-after. Collectors appreciate the fusion of history, rarity, and the whimsical Snoopy theme.

OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

The Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, created in collaboration with the James Bond franchise, is one of the most coveted modern OMEGA watches. It is the official watch of 007 in the film "No Time to Die," and its titanium construction, vintage-inspired design, and "military" touches, such as a mesh bracelet, make it stand out. Limited in availability and tied to the enduring legacy of James Bond, this watch is prized by collectors who appreciate its connection to popular culture. Its lightweight yet robust build adds both functionality and elegance, making it a highly desirable timepiece.

OMEGA Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon

Launched in 2013, the OMEGA Dark Side of the Moon quickly became a favorite among collectors. This model features an all-black ceramic case, paying homage to the lunar surface, and continues OMEGA’s tradition of linking the Speedmaster to space exploration. The watch's sleek and modern aesthetic, combined with the technical precision of OMEGA's Co-Axial chronograph movement, has made it a standout piece in the Speedmaster lineup. Its design innovation and bold look, paired with the enduring legacy of the Moonwatch, have ensured its status as a modern collectible. The Dark Side of the Moon remains a favorite for those who want cutting-edge materials with historical resonance.

OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black

The Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black is a technical marvel that blends OMEGA's deep-sea diving expertise with cutting-edge material innovation. With a black ceramic case and bezel, combined with OMEGA’s Master Chronometer certification, this watch is both highly functional and visually striking. The Deep Black model is water-resistant up to 600 meters, making it a serious diving watch, while its limited edition status has garnered attention from collectors. Its mix of durability, innovation, and a bold aesthetic appeals to those looking for a modern watch that’s both practical and rare. The seamless design, combining ceramic and rubber, further enhances its desirability.

OMEGA Constellation Manhattan 29mm "Sedna Gold"

The Constellation Manhattan in Sedna Gold is a luxurious modern classic within OMEGA's collection. Crafted from OMEGA's proprietary rose gold alloy, Sedna gold, this watch exudes elegance and sophistication. Its 29mm size and diamond-set bezel appeal to those who appreciate refined, feminine design, while its automatic movement ensures precision. The unique “claws” and half-moon facets on the case of this OMEGA Constellation have become signature design elements, making it instantly recognizable. Collectors are drawn to this model for its luxurious materials, timeless aesthetic, and impeccable craftsmanship, ensuring it remains a treasured piece for years to come.

OMEGA Speedmaster Ultraman

The Speedmaster Ultraman is a limited-edition model that captures the imagination of collectors with its unique connection to the 1960s Japanese superhero, Ultraman. With only 2,012 pieces produced, this Speedmaster features striking orange accents and a hidden Ultraman silhouette revealed under UV light. Its design is inspired by the original Speedmaster worn in the "Ultraman" TV series, making it both a nostalgic and playful piece. The watch’s rarity, combined with its vintage Speedmaster aesthetic, has made it a favorite among collectors who appreciate pop culture crossovers. Its whimsical yet precise design has cemented its status as one of the most collectible modern Speedmasters.

Vintage OMEGA Speedmaster Watches

Vintage Omega Watches Speedmaster 321 Movement

OMEGA watch history dates back to 1848. The historic Swiss manufacturer is responsible for the creation of numerous models that are instantly recognizable all around the globe. However, above all of its other important and celebrated timepieces, it is the classic OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch that holds the title of being the brand's most famous and collectible model of all time.

First launched in 1957 alongside the brand’s very first dive watch (the Seamaster 300) and first antimagnetic scientist’s watch (the Railmaster), the OMEGA Speedmaster was a chronograph wristwatch originally designed for the world of competitive automotive racing. However, the watch’s racing chronograph origins were soon eclipsed by its newfound associations with space exploration, when astronaut Wally Schirra wore his personal OMEGA Speedmaster during the 'Sigma 7' mission in 1962.

Two and a half years after first reaching outer space, the OMEGA Speedmaster had become flight-qualified by NASA for all manned space missions and in 1969, the Speedmaster became the first watch worn on the surface of the moon. To this day, the original manual-wind OMEGA Speedmaster remains the only watch to ever be certified both for space flight and EVA (use outside of a spacecraft) and although it has undergone numerous improvements and refinements over the years, its core design has remained largely unchanged and it is widely regarded as one of the true icons from the world of horology.

Why the OMEGA Speedmaster Is the Most Collectible Vintage OMEGA Watch

Vintage Omega Watch Speedmaster Caliber 321 Movement

The OMEGA Speedmaster boasts a history and pedigree that few other timepieces (OMEGA or otherwise) can match. The Seamaster is the OMEGA collection that typically lends itself to the James Bond franchise and it is also the one that most frequently serves as the platform for OMEGA’s various limited editions and collaborations. However, mention the word “OMEGA” to any die-hard watch enthusiast, and it will likely be the Speedmaster that first comes to mind.

Beyond the OMEGA speedmaster history and space-travel associations, a big part of the Speedmaster's appeal is its design. The perfect blend of refinement and functionality, the core aesthetic of the Speedmaster has remained largely unchanged for more than half a century. As a testament to its timeless appeal, not once has the Speedmaster ever looked out of place or outdated during that time, and the classic manual-wind Moonwatch is arguably more popular and revered today than ever before.

The OMEGA Speedmaster was the only watch to pass NASA’s rigorous tests during the 1960s, and being chosen as the timepiece trusted enough for space travel is about the best stamp of approval that any watch could ever receive. Vintage examples of the watch now represent an era in which the mechanical timepiece was regarded as a true tool and an item of necessity, and it is this connection to the golden era of the tool watch that helps drive the allure of the classic manually-wound Speedmaster Moonwatch with collectors today.

Consequently, it is now typically the vintage OMEGA Speedmaster references that were created during this era that are often regarded as the most desirable and collectible. Above all other vintage OMEGA Speedmaster watches, it is the early references fitted with the Caliber 321 movement that are now significantly more expensive and collectible than their later-era counterparts.

The Legendary Caliber 321 Movement

Vintage Omega Watch Caliber 321 Speedmaster Moonwatch

Although the OMEGA Speedmaster did undergo a rather significant case update in 1964 with the introduction of the reference 105.012, its overall case design has stayed more-or-less consistent ever since. The current-production model still features a case that is largely based on the same design that first debuted back in the mid-1960s, and while the very oldest models with straight lugs are the most expensive, the single greatest factor that increases the value of a vintage OMEGA Speedmaster is whether or not it is fitted by the legendary Caliber 321 movement.

Wally Schirra wore a reference 2998 when the OMEGA Speedmaster first reached outer space, the Speedmaster model tested by NASA was a reference 105.003, Neil Armstrong wore a 105.012, Michael Collins wore a reference 145.012, and Buzz Aldrin may have worn either a reference 105.012 or 145.012 (we simply don't know since his watch mysteriously disappeared while on its way to the Smithsonian museum in 1970). These various references span different case shapes and design elements, but what all of these watches have in common is the legendary OMEGA Caliber 321 movement.

It is estimated that OMEGA produced less than 100,000 watches with Cal. 321 movements, and this includes all six different references that were produced between 1957 and 1969, along with other various OMEGA chronograph models that were powered by the Caliber 321. A reference 145.012 from the late 1960s looks almost identical to a reference 145.022 from the early 1970s, but due to the fact that the earlier ref. 145.012 features the Caliber 321 movement, you can expect to pay an absolute minimum of several thousand dollars more for it should you wish to add one to your collection.

Not all vintage OMEGA watches are ultra-desirable collectibles, but the classic manually-wound Speedmaster Moonwatch with its signature black and white dial is one of the undisputed icons of horology, and any example of this celebrated chronograph is guaranteed to be worth at least a few thousand dollars. However, when it comes to vintage OMEGA Speedmaster watches with Caliber 321 movements, these models rank among the most collectible and desirable vintage OMEGA watches in existence and are the exact same models worn by astronauts during the pioneering years of space exploration.

About Bob's Watches Editorial

Paul AltieriWith over two decades of experience in the luxury watch industry, the Bob's Watches Editorial Team stands at the forefront of watch expertise and insight. Our team, composed of seasoned watch enthusiasts, skilled horologists, and knowledgeable industry insiders, is dedicated to bringing you the latest and most accurate information in the world of luxury timepieces. We pride ourselves on our meticulous attention to detail and our unwavering commitment to authenticity. Our editorial content is a reflection of our passion for luxury watches and our dedication to providing our readers with comprehensive, unbiased, and up-to-date information. Our expertise spans a wide range of topics, including in-depth reviews of the latest models, historical retrospectives of iconic timepieces, and insightful analyses of market trends. We are also renowned for our detailed guides on watch maintenance and investment advice, making us a trusted resource for both seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts alike. As thought leaders in the watch industry, we understand the importance of staying ahead of the curve. That's why we continually update our knowledge and skills, ensuring that our readers receive the most current and relevant information. Whether you're seeking advice on your next luxury watch purchase or looking to deepen your understanding of watch craftsmanship, the Bob's Watches Editorial Team is here to guide you.

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