How To Wind a Rolex Watch
Rolex, a renowned name in the world of luxury timepieces, has crafted its entire Rolex watch collection with automatic self-winding mechanical movements. This innovative technology eliminates the need for batteries or any form of electricity to power the watch. Instead, these timepieces rely on a purely mechanical movement that stores energy in a coiled spring, which gradually unwinds and drives the watch's functions. What sets Rolex apart is its signature Perpetual movements, which harness the natural motion of the wearer's arm to wind the watch automatically throughout the day.
However, it's essential to note that automatic luxury watches require consistent wear and motion to maintain their power reserve. If you haven't worn your Rolex for a day or more, depending on the specific model, you may find that it has stopped running when you pick it up again. Fortunately, despite being self-winding, most Rolex watches can also be manually wound. In this article, we will explore the proper techniques for winding your Rolex watch, ensuring that your timepiece remains in optimal condition and ready to accompany you through all of life's moments.
Why Should You Wind a Rolex?
One of the most significant limitations of automatic watches is their tendency to stop running if they don't receive sufficient wear throughout the day. The power reserve, which is the amount of time a watch can continue running without being worn or wound, varies between different movements. Some modern calibers boast impressive power reserves spanning multiple days, but most traditional mechanical movements, including all Rolex models, typically offer power reserves ranging from 48 to 72 hours. Users can consult with their Rolex user manual for details about a specific watch.
For those who only wear their watch during the workweek, a timepiece with a 48-hour power reserve may not still be running by Monday morning if it was last worn on Friday evening. Consequently, the watch will need to be restarted and reset at the start of each week. To avoid the inconvenience of resetting their watches every Monday, many mechanical watch owners prefer to keep their timepieces running continuously, assuming they are worn daily.
Apart from wearing the watch over the weekend, there are only two practical ways to ensure that a watch with a standard 48-hour power reserve remains operational come Monday morning. The first option is to invest in an automatic watch winder. These compact watch boxes feature electric motors that periodically rotate the watch, providing it with sufficient motion to maintain its power reserve. However, for those who prefer not to deal with the added complexity of a watch winder, the only alternative is to manually wind the watch at some point during the weekend.
How Do You Wind a Rolex?
Historically, Rolex has produced watches with various movement types, including traditional hand-wound movements and even battery-powered quartz calibers. However, in the brand's current lineup, every Rolex watch features a self-winding movement equipped with the company's proprietary Perpetual rotor system. This innovative mechanism, essentially a centrally mounted pendulum, harnesses the natural motion of the wearer's arm to wind the watch throughout the day. Furthermore, while some older or vintage Rolex watch models featured standard push/pull winding crowns, all contemporary Rolex watches, including those from the Rolex Cellini collection that don't explicitly advertise Oyster cases, now feature screw-down crowns.
In modern Rolex terminology, the term "Oyster" signifies that the watch's case-back and winding crown screw down to ensure water-resistance. It's important to note that some vintage models were branded as having Rolex Oyster cases despite lacking screw-down crowns. On the other hand, the term "Perpetual" indicates that the watch is equipped with an automatic, or self-winding, movement that can wind itself using the natural motion of the wearer's arm. As a result, when you encounter a Rolex watch with the words "Oyster Perpetual" on the dial, it is highly likely that you are dealing with an automatic watch featuring a screw-down crown and case-back. If your timepiece falls under the Rolex Oyster Perpetual category, continue reading for a comprehensive guide on how to wind your Rolex properly.
How to Wind a Rolex: Step by Step Instructions
While most people are familiar with winding traditional pocket watches, the process of winding a Rolex differs slightly due to the brand's signature Oyster Case and self-winding Perpetual movements. The following instructions are specifically for Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches, which feature self-winding movements and screw-down crowns. If your Rolex has a non-screw-down crown or a manual-wind-only movement, please refer to the additional sections below for relevant information.
Step 1: Unscrewing the Crown
Before you can wind your watch, set the time, or adjust the date, you must first unscrew the winding crown from the side of the case. Grip the crown and rotate it towards you, turning it in the 6 o'clock direction (counterclockwise). Continue rotating the crown until it is completely free from the threads and pops out to its natural position. Be careful not to pull the crown out, as it should remain in its natural position, fully inward, but free from the securing threads.
Step 2: Winding the Watch
Once the crown is in the proper position, begin rotating it away from you, towards the 12 o'clock location (clockwise). Only clockwise motion will supply tension to the Rolex mainspring barrel and wind your watch; rotating the crown in the opposite direction will not "unwind" the watch. If you notice the watch stopping or the date/time changing while turning the crown, you may have accidentally pulled the crown out to one of its other positions. In this case, gently press the crown inward towards the watch to return it to the proper winding position.
Step 3: Fully Winding the Watch
Continue turning the winding crown until you have completed approximately 40 rotations. At this point, the watch will be fully wound. If your Rolex features a self-winding Perpetual movement, there is no risk of "overwinding" the watch during manual winding. Once the mainspring is fully wound, a slip gear engages to prevent additional tension from being applied, safeguarding the watch from damage.
Step 4: Starting the Watch
If your watch was not running when you began the winding process, it should now be operational. If the seconds hand remains stopped, give the watch a gentle shake to help the movement overcome its moment of inertia and start running. With the watch fully wound, you can now pull out the crown to set the time and date, if necessary. Refer to the specific setting instructions for your particular Rolex model and movement, as they can vary significantly.
Step 5: Securing the Crown
To ensure your Rolex's Oyster Case continues to protect the movement from moisture and dust, it is crucial to screw the crown back down to the side of the case. Press the crown inwards while applying pressure, and rotate it away from you, towards the 12 o'clock location (clockwise). You will feel the threads engage, and the crown will begin to screw down to the case. Continue turning the winding crown until it is fully screwed down, being careful not to apply excessive pressure, which may damage the threads on the crown and case tube.
Once your Rolex is fully wound and the crown is securely screwed down, the winding process is complete, and you can confidently wear your watch once again.
Winding a Rolex Without a Screw-Down Crown
While all modern Rolex watches feature screw-down crowns, certain older models, particularly vintage and dress watches, may not include this feature. If your Rolex does not have a screw-down crown, the winding process is even simpler, as there is no need to unscrew the winding crown before accessing the movement.
For vintage Rolex watches without screw-down crowns, the winding process closely resembles that of a traditional pocket watch. Simply look down at the watch and rotate the winding crown away from you, towards the 12 o'clock location (clockwise). As with a pocket watch, there is no need to pull out the crown and stem – this is only necessary when setting the time or date. Instead, leave the crown pressed all the way into the case and give it a turn.
When winding your Rolex, it is crucial to know whether it has an automatic or manual winding movement. The "How to Wind a Rolex" instructions above are intended for models with self-winding Perpetual movements. However, not all Rolex watches with screw-down crowns have self-winding movements. If your model has a traditional hand-wind movement, please refer to the additional notes in the section below.
Winding a Rolex Without an Automatic Movement
Many Rolex watches without screw-down crowns also lack automatic self-winding movements. These models are often elegant dress watches that forgo the Oyster cases and Perpetual movements of their counterparts in favor of more refined designs.
However, there are also several Rolex watches that feature screw-down Oyster cases but are equipped with traditional hand-wind movements, lacking the ability to wind themselves. For these models, the process of unscrewing the winding crown remains the same; the key difference lies in what happens once the watch is fully wound.
It's essential to ensure that your Rolex is genuine before attempting to wind it. If you are unsure about the authenticity of your watch, please refer to our article on how to spot a fake Rolex for more information.
Unlike automatic watches, which have no natural stopping point during manual winding, manual-wind-only movements will stop rotating the winding crown once the mainspring is fully wound. Attempting to force the crown beyond this point can damage the watch, as these manual-wind movements do not feature the same slip gear as their automatic counterparts.
For Rolex watches with hand-wind movements and screw-down crowns, once the winding crown stops rotating, your watch is fully wound. Simply press the crown back inward and screw it down to the case to ensure your watch's water-resistance, and you can confidently wear it on your wrist once more.
Winding Your Rolex Watch: Final Notes
It is essential to note that if you wear your Rolex daily and it receives an adequate amount of motion, manual winding will not be necessary. Many Rolex owners are unaware that their watches can be wound by hand, as they have never needed to do so. However, even if you don't regularly need to manually wind your Rolex, understanding how to do it is an important aspect of ownership and for those who are considering investing in a Rolex watch.
If your Rolex does not require manual winding, there is no compelling reason to do so, especially not on a regular basis. In fact, daily hand-winding of a watch with an already fully wound mainspring is not ideal for the longevity of the movement. Manually winding a fully wound watch does not increase its power reserve, and instead, it simply puts a small amount of additional wear and tear on the movement's winding components.
With that said, manually winding your Rolex will not cause any damage, so feel free to wind it by hand, if necessary, particularly if you want your watch to continue running for several days without being worn. It's important to remember that at one point, all watches were hand-wind only, meaning these movements were designed to be wound by hand, even if manual winding has become a secondary method for modern automatic mechanical movements.
Additionally, unnecessary screwing and unscrewing of the winding crown can put extra wear and tear on the internal rubber gaskets responsible for keeping moisture out of the case. Even the most water-resistant watch will let in water if it has a damaged gasket, so preserving these seals is another crucial aspect of ownership, especially if you plan on wearing your Rolex in the water.
Rolex understands that owners will need to periodically unscrew the crowns of their watches to wind them or set the time and date, so there is no need to avoid using your winding crown for its intended purpose. However, it is something to keep in mind if you find yourself unscrewing your crown daily.
Lastly, it is important to note that you should not feel a lot of mechanical resistance while manually winding your watch. You may feel tension start to build as the mainspring is wound; however, it should still rotate smoothly and freely. If it feels sticky, crunchy, or you otherwise feel a significant amount of resistance coming from within the movement, do not under any circumstances force it. Mechanical watch movements are made of dozens of tiny, precisely made components, and it does not take much force to damage the delicate teeth of a gear.
Winding your Rolex watch is a natural part of ownership, but it is important that you do it properly. If something ever doesn’t feel right and you have to put a noticeable force behind it, stop what you are doing and bring your watch to your nearest Rolex Authorized Service Provider. Forcing anything in the movement can often lead to damage and expensive internal repairs, and double-checking things with a professional will save you a huge headache in the long run.