Although the Submariner is easily its most famous and best-selling dive watch; Rolex manufactures two other timepieces that were specifically designed to outperform the Submariner at conquering the depths of the ocean. Initially conceived during the 1960s, the Rolex Sea-Dweller is a collection of ultra-capable professional dive watches that aims to pick up where the Submariner left off, enabling its users to dive deeper and stay at depth longer.
The Rolex Sea-Dweller collection consists of both the standard Sea-Dweller and its even more extreme brother, the Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller. While the Deepsea holds the title of being Rolex’s most water-resistant watch, both timepieces are among the largest and most capable dive watches that Rolex has ever put forward. Although they were both designed for a similar intended purpose, the Rolex Sea-Dweller and the Rolex Deepsea are surprisingly different watches.
Rolex Sea-Dweller
Sea-Dweller ref. 12660x Quick Specs
- References: 126600, 126603
- Introduction Year: 2017
- Case Size: 43mm
- Case Materials: Oystersteel (904L Stainless Steel Alloy) or Yellow Rolesor (Two-Tone Steel and Yellow Gold)
- Bezel: Cerachrom (Ceramic), Unidirectional, 60 Minute Scale
- Dial: Black
- Crystal: Sapphire Crystal with Cyclops Date Lens
- Bracelet: Oyster with Oysterlock and Glidelock
- Functions: Hour, Minute, Second hands; Instantaneous Date, Timing Bezel
- Water Resistance: 1,220 meters (4,000 feet)
- Helium Escape Valve: Yes
- Caliber: 3235 Automatic Movement
- Retail Prices: $12,950, $17,000
Rolex Deepsea
Deepsea ref. 136660 Quick Specs
- Introduction Year: 2022
- Case Size: 44mm
- Case Materials: Oystersteel (904L Stainless Steel Alloy)
- Bezel: Cerachrom (Ceramic), Unidirectional, 60 Minute Scale
- Dial: Black or D-Blue
- Crystal: 5.5mm Thick Domed Sapphire Crystal
- Bracelet: Oyster with Oysterlock and Glidelock
- Functions: Hour, Minute, Second hands; Instantaneous Date, Timing Bezel
- Water Resistance: 3,900 meters (12,800 feet)
- Helium Escape Valve: Yes
- Caliber: 3235 Automatic Movement
- Retail Prices: $13,850, $14,150
Collection Options: Rolex Sea-Dweller vs. Rolex Deepsea
Between the classic Sea-Dweller and the Deepsea, the entire current Rolex Sea-Dweller collection now consists of 4 watches. The classic Rolex Sea-Dweller is offered in both stainless steel (ref. 126600) and two-tone steel and 18k yellow gold (ref. 126603).
Additionally, the Rolex Deepsea is also offered in two different variations, both of which are crafted exclusively from stainless steel. The standard version of the reference 136660 Rolex Deepsea is fitted with a classic black dial, while the other (nicknamed the “James Cameron”) has what Rolex calls the ‘D-Blue’ dial, which fades from dark blue to black and features the DEEPSEA name in bright green text.
The above reference numbers are for the current-production Sea-Dweller and Deepsea models. The most recent Sea-Dweller watches came out in 2017 (Oystersteel version) and 2019 (two-tone Yellow Rolesor version). Conversely, the newest Deepsea model was just recently released in March 2022.
- Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 (Introduced 2017)
- Sea-Dweller ref. 126603 (Introduced 2019)
- Deepsea ref. 136660 Black Dial (Introduced 2022)
- Deepsea ref. 136660 D-Blue Dial (Introduced 2022)
However, it’s almost important to make a note of discontinued Sea-Dweller and Deepsea references. Especially since the Sea-Dweller has been around since 1967 and the Deepsea since 2008.
- Sea-Dweller ref. 1665 (Introduced 1967)
- Sea-Dweller ref. 16660 (Introduced 1978)
- Sea-Dweller ref. 16600 (Introduced 1989)
- Deepsea ref. 116660 (Introduced 2008)
- Sea-Dweller ref. 116600 (Introduced 2014)
- Deepsea ref. 116660 D-Blue (Introduced 2014)
- Deepsea ref. 126660 (Introduced 2018)
Rolex used to fit the Sea-Dweller watch with 40mm cases; however, that changed with the release of the 43mm 50th Anniversary Sea-Dweller in 2017. On the other hand, the Deepsea has always had a 44mm case.
Design: Rolex Sea-Dweller vs. Rolex Deepsea
Although the Sea-Dweller has traditionally been a 40mm watch, the most recent generation of Sea-Dweller watches has seen an increase in size to a 43mm case diameter. Additionally, while previous versions of the Sea-Dweller have traditionally had flat crystals, the latest generation adds Rolex’s iconic Cyclops magnification lens to the surface of the crystal. With the exception of a few small details on the dial and bezel, the latest generation of Rolex Sea-Dweller largely resembles a larger version of the contemporary Rolex Submariner.
Despite being a part of the Sea-Dweller collection, the Deepsea is a significantly different watch from a case architecture standpoint.
While the case design of the regular Sea-Dweller is similar to a traditional Rolex timepiece, the 44mm case of the reference 136660 Deepsea uses Rolex’s patented Ringlock System that allows the Deepsea to survive depths up to 3,900 meters (12,800 feet). Due to this highly specialized case design, the Rolex Deepsea is chunkier than the regular Sea-Dweller, and its extra thick, domed sapphire crystal (without Cyclops magnification lens) gives the watch a noticeably different appearance both on and off the wrist.
Movements: Rolex Sea-Dweller vs. Rolex Deepsea
The previous generation of both the Rolex Sea-Dweller and the Rolex Deepsea was powered by the tried-and-true Caliber 3135 movement, which has been used to power the majority of Rolex’s date-displaying watches since the late 1980s. However, in 2017, Rolex began updating its various Sea-Dweller watches with its all-new generation of in-house date displaying movement, the Caliber 3235.
Despite their differences, today all Rolex Sea-Dweller and Deepsea watches are fitted with Caliber 3235 movements. Protected by fourteen patents, and boasting a 70-hour power reserve, the Caliber 3235 also incorporates Rolex’s new, highly efficient Chronergy escapement, in which both the redesigned pallet fork and escape wheel are made from nickel-phosphorous to be insensitive to magnetic interference.
Prices: Rolex Sea-Dweller Vs Deepsea
The retail prices of the Sea-Dweller and Deepsea are as follows:
- Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 in Oystersteel: $12,950
- Sea-Dweller ref. 126603 in Yellow Rolesor: $17,000
- Deepsea ref. 136660 with a black dial: $13,850
- Deepsea ref. 136660 D-Blue Dial (Introduced 2022): $14,150
As you can see, the steel Sea-Dweller is slightly less expensive than the steel Deepsea. Unsurprisingly, the most expensive of them all is the two-tone Sea-Dweller thanks to its combinations of steel and 18k yellow gold.
Given the current state of the pre-owned Rolex watch market, current-production Sea-Dweller watches, like essentially all Rolex sports models, are valued above retail on the secondary market.
- Pre-owned Sea-Dweller ref. 126600 in Oystersteel: Prices start at $14,500
- Pre-owned Sea-Dweller ref. 126603 in Yellow Rolesor: Prices start at $19,995
Since Rolex only released the Deepsea ref. 136660 a few months back, its market value hasn’t been established yet. However, if we look at the previous reference, which is very similar to the latest model, we note the following prices on the secondary market:
- Pre-owned Deepsea ref. 126660 with black dial: Prices start at $15,995
- Pre-owned Deepsea ref. 126660 with D-Blue dial: Prices start at $17,595
Yet again, we see that pre-owned Deepsea watches, even the recently discontinued ones, are valued higher on the secondary market than their suggested retail prices.
Subtle Differences: Rolex Sea-Dweller vs. Deepsea
Even with case diameters that are just 1mm apart, the Rolex Sea-Dweller and the Rolex Deepsea have significantly different appearances due to their inner bezels.
The standard Rolex Sea-Dweller follows the classic inner bezel design, while the one on the Deepsea is much larger and has the words “Original Gas Escape Valve” and “Ring Lock System” visibly displayed under the crystal.
The prominent inner bezel on the Deepsea is a structural component of the watch’s specialized case design. The extra thick, domed sapphire crystal sits against the inner bezel ring, which is constructed from an extra hard, nitrogen-alloyed steel. As the massive pressures found deep below the ocean’s surface press down on the crystal of the Deepsea, the component is supported by the inner ring, allowing the watch to withstand water pressure equivalent to a weight of more than 3 tons on the crystal.
Additionally, the caseback on the Rolex Deepsea is a design specifically engineered to allow the watch to withstand incredibly high pressures that would otherwise deform traditional casebacks. While the caseback on the standard Rolex Sea-Dweller is the usual, solid, stainless steel variety, the caseback on the Deepsea is a multi-part system, in which a slightly flexible titanium cover sits against the opposite side of the inner bezel support ring, while a stainless steel, donut-shaped piece screws on top of the titanium cover to hold it all together. As depth increases, the water pressure forces the crystal and the titanium rear cover into the gaskets of the watch, pressing them against its extra hard, nitrogen-alloyed steel support ring. This design allows the seal of the Deepsea to improve as pressure increases, enabling even greater possible depths.
Both the Rolex Sea-Dweller and Rolex Deepsea are among the most robust and water-resistant watches that Rolex has ever produced. For many, the Submariner provides far more moisture protection than they are ever likely to be required; however, for those that truly require the utmost water resistance, there are no better options than those found in the Rolex Sea-Dweller collection.
