The Oyster Perpetual was one of the most talked about pre-owned Rolex watches of 2020. The collection, which hasn’t changed very drastically since coming to market in the 1950s, received a new case size, a new movement, and a new selection of vibrant lacquer dial colors seemingly inspired by the vintage Rolex Stella dials from the 1970s. Among the most popular of the new dial colors is the turquoise dial, which has already earned the nickname “Tiffany Blue” after its resemblance to the iconic jewelry retailer.
It’s a bright and refreshing iteration of the usually more subdued Oyster Perpetual, and it’s nearly impossible to find on the retail level. With other brands incorporating the timeless blue hue into their catalogs, such as Patek Philippe and Breitling, it’s no wonder that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is such a success. What’s the story behind the new Rolex Tiffany Blue Oyster Perpetual? And where can you buy it? Let’s break it down.
What Is the Rolex Tiffany Blue Dial?
The 2020 Oyster Perpetual dials are a revival of the vintage Rolex Stella dials initially produced for the 4 and 5-digit Day-Date. The original dials featured bold and unusual high gloss colors such as oxblood, purple, red, orange, green, and blue. They earned their name after the Swiss dial manufacturer that produced them and were advertised by Rolex as “Lacquered Stella.” Vintage Stella dials were produced in very limited quantities between and 1970s and early 1990s and have since become a highly prized collector’s item on the secondary market.
Today, the modern Rolex Stella dials are made exclusively for the Oyster Perpetual series and include a balance of traditional and bright Stella-inspired colorways scattered throughout the different case size options. When the 2020 lineup first made its debut, colors included classic silver, blue, and black, and Stella-inspired coral red, green, candy pink, yellow, and turquoise blue – aka Tiffany blue. In a surprising move, Rolex completely discontinued the coral red and yellow dials and removed the Tiffany blue dial from the 41mm ref. 124300, after just a few short years on the market. The only Rolex watches still produced with the popular turquoise blue dial are the Oyster Perpetual 36 ref. 126000 and Oyster Perpetual 31 ref. 277200.
How Much Is a Rolex Tiffany Blue Dial Watch?
The 2020 Rolex Stella dials were a massive success, selling out at authorized dealers worldwide. The Oyster Perpetual, once a go-to entry-level Rolex model, has now become one of the market’s most exclusive Rolex dress watches. The 41mm model, which retails for $6,150, now trades hands for well over $30k because of its newly-acquired status as a discontinued Rolex and its limited supply on the secondary market.
For comparison, the Oyster Perpetual 36 retails for $5,800 and commands anywhere between $15k and $20k. It isn’t unusual to see triple the retail price for these fashion-forward blue dial Rolex watches.
The New Oyster Perpetual 41
Rolex has adhered to the same classic aesthetic for nearly a century. However, the company has experimented with modern design choices in recent years to remain on-trend with the ever-changing market. That includes larger case sizes. Many of Rolex’s most popular models already sport bigger Oyster cases, including the Datejust 41 and Day-Date 40.
In 2020, Rolex upgraded the Submariner and Oyster Perpetual to 41mm case sizes, effectively retiring the Submariner 40 and the Oyster Perpetual 39. The OP collection also currently includes 36mm, 34mm, 31mm, and 28mm options, although not all of these models are outfitted with the lovely Tiffany blue dial. Still, there is no shortage of sizes to choose from when shopping for the perfect Oyster Perpetual for your wrist.
The New Rolex 3230 Movement
Caliber 3230 was also released in 2020, replacing the caliber 3130 that came to market in the early 2000s and bringing with it a longer 70-hour power reserve (compared to caliber 3130’s 48-hour power reserve), a more efficient Chronergy escapement, and increased resistance to magnetic fields. Rolex has since integrated the time-only movement into most of the dateless models in their portfolio, including the Explorer 36, No Date Submariner ref. 124060, and the brand-new Deepsea Challenge ref. 126067.
Additionally, the 41mm and 36mm Oyster Perpetual use the caliber 3230, while the rest of the OP family relies on the smaller caliber 2232 movement – another new release for 2020. It features a 55-hour power reserve and a new Syloxi hairspring for greater anti-magnetism and better resistance to temperature variations and shocks.
Other Distinguishing Features
While Rolex has produced the Oyster Perpetual in gold and two-tone in the past, the current collection is only furnished in superior 904L-grade stainless steel – aka Oystersteel. Furthermore, regardless of case size, each model features a smooth bezel, three-link Oyster bracelet, folding Oysterclasp, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a Twinlock waterproof screw-down crown with a 100-meter depth rating.
The Tiffany blue dial Rolex has all the makings of a future cult classic. It’s hard to come by on the retail level and is unconventional by Oyster Perpetual’s standards. At the same time, the stainless steel finish is timeless, and the upgraded movement affords the wearer even more convenience than ever before. It certainly deserves a spot in any watch box.