Remember a few years ago, when everyone was saying the invention of the smartwatch was going to do away with conventional timepieces altogether? Before that, the actual smartphone itself was on the brink of doing the same thing. And if you were around in the 70s and old enough to be paying attention, it was quartz that was going to nail down the coffin lid on all things Swiss and traditional (which in all fairness, it almost did).
My point is that high-end mechanical watches have weathered every storm that has blown their way over the years. And not just weathered them, but continued to thrive until we have the situation today, where the industry has rarely been in ruder health.
Far from succumbing to each technological fad, impressive though they are, the soullessness of electronics has only served to rekindle an appreciation for the artistry and passion of a painstakingly created caliber and a beautifully crafted exterior. The market for mechanical watches, both new and pre-owned, is now vast, and an increasing number of people seem to be discovering the joys of collecting on a daily basis. For the newcomer, a dip of the toe into this new world of luxury watches can quickly become an overwhelming experience. There is enough information out there to fill several libraries, and just finding a place to start is daunting enough.
Additionally, there are also other aspects of the luxury watch industry that seem to defy common logic and go against everything that you know to be true. Before you even scratch the surface, you will find instances where plain stainless steel watches, such as a popular Rolex watch model, are selling for significantly more than the solid gold version of the identical models – by millions of dollars. Additionally, you will find that you cannot simply buy a brand-new Rolex sports watch; all retailers are sold out, with waitlists spanning years and no end in sight. And if that doesn’t confuse you enough, many pre-owned watches are now selling for significantly more than than original retail prices.
Learning how to buy your first luxury watch comes with a few key elements you will want to pay close attention to. What to buy will always be a completely personal choice, but in an effort to help you make sense of some of the most important points, we have tried to distill all that knowledge into easily digested chunks. So, read below for our tips on how to buy a Rolex, OMEGA, or any other luxury watch for that matter.
Luxury Watch Budgets: From Entry-Level to High-End Timepieces
Let’s get this one out of the way first. In horology, there is always a more expensive option. There is always a costlier material for the case, or the dial and bezel could be given the gemstone treatment. Two very similar looking watches from two different brands could have two extremely dissimilar price tags, and the reasons may be all down to the name on the dial and not much else.
The best advice (which I wish someone had given me many years and countless spousal arguments ago) is to be honest with yourself on your budget and be disciplined enough to stick to it.
We have all fallen prey to watch envy at one time or another – seen a friend or colleague with just the ideal example on their wrist. Without keeping a good handle on your emotions, it will lead you to overstretch yourself financially. It can be a particularly tricky thing to do – buying a luxury watch is, of course, all about emotion. But if I can’t act as an inspiration to others, at least let me be a warning; set yourself a realistic upper limit and don’t go beyond it.
First Watch to Buy: Modern or Vintage Luxury?
The modern versus vintage debate is one that takes up significant bandwidth across multiple blog platforms and forums, and it is filled with so much minutiae on both sides that there isn’t enough room to go into it all here. My personal opinion? For your very first watch – especially if it is a mechanical one, I would recommend going modern.
Think of it as buying your first car. Yes, there is a lot to be said for retro cool, but there is a lot more to be said for something that starts first time on a snowy morning and keeps running till you reach where you’re going. A vintage watch takes more looking after than a modern one, and you need a certain amount of experience to know what that sort of looking after entails. A modern piece isn’t maintenance free by any means, but you can expect it to be much easier to live with on a daily basis.
As an aside, note I’ve said modern rather than new. You can often get a lot more watch for your money buying a recently released model on the pre-owned market than you can wandering into a certified dealer and buying the box fresh version – but more on that later.
First Watch Recommendations: Consider Your Personal Style
Here’s where we start getting into the guts of the thing. There are a slew of different watch styles, of every conceivable design and with a whole range of functions – what you will see called complications.
Technically, anything beyond three hands that tell you the time is a complication. So, it can range from something as workaday as a date display, all the way up to the hyper complexity end where you will find things like tourbillons, moonphases, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters.
What you want out of your first watch is up to you (obviously), but you don’t have to be put off by titles. If you like the look of the group listed as dive watches, it doesn’t matter if you don’t dive. (No one else who wears luxury dive watches does either, if we’re being honest). Similarly, you’re still allowed a chronograph regardless of whether you compete in the Le Mans 24hr or not. Both those types, and many more, serve other purposes – even if that purpose is nothing more than to look good on your wrist.
One question to ask yourself that can help in nailing down which style you want to get is, how many watches do you think you will buy overall? Is this the start of a whole new thing for you, or are you just after one serious watch to see you through every situation? If it’s the former, it opens up a much broader choice. The latter, and you are going to want to go for something with a touch more aesthetic versatility – you need a piece that can be worn with a wider array of outfits without looking out of place. For that t-shirt to tuxedo flexibility, it can pay to look at the more simple, classically-styled offerings and avoid anything too brash or in-your-face.
Type of Metal When Buying Your First Watch
This is part of the style section, but it is such a vital consideration it deserves a segment to itself. The type of metal you choose makes a big statement. A solid yellow gold watch says one thing, the same model in steel says something completely different. Rose gold, white gold, platinum, they all have their own qualities and the perceptions of others linked to them.
Beyond that is the question of expense. You would think, and in most cases be right, that a gold watch would cost more than a steel one. However, it is by no means always true. Yes, if you buy a brand new steel Rolex sports model at an Authorized Dealer, it will retail for less than its gold equivalent. But, you can’t buy a brand new steel Rolex sports model at an authorized dealer (without waiting out an extremely long waitlist) because Rolex doesn’t produce enough watches to meet demand.
Keeping the supply artificially low has seen the price of steel examples of pieces such as the Daytona skyrocket on secondary market. Now we are at the point where the Rolesor models (half steel/half gold) are significantly cheaper. In fact, pre-owned steel Daytonas are now roughly the same price as brand new solid gold ones. Exclusivity plays (at least) as big a factor in the cost of luxury watches as the sum of their parts.
Top 5 Luxury Watches to Consider for Your First Purchase
Choosing your first luxury watch is a significant milestone, and the right timepiece can serve as both a personal statement and a lasting investment. At Bob’s Watches, we understand that the process can be overwhelming, given the vast array of options available. To simplify your search, we’ve selected five top collections from leading brands that offer a perfect blend of design, craftsmanship, and prestige. Whether you prefer the rugged elegance of a Rolex Submariner or the iconic design of an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, these watches represent the pinnacle of luxury and are ideal choices for your first foray into high-end timepieces.
Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner is more than just a watch; it’s a legend in the world of horology. Originally designed as a professional diver’s watch, the Submariner has transcended its utilitarian roots to become a symbol of luxury and adventure. Its design has remained remarkably consistent over the decades, a testament to its timeless appeal. The Submariner’s robust construction and versatile aesthetics make it suitable for virtually any occasion, from casual outings to formal events, making it an excellent choice for your first luxury watch.
In addition to its iconic design, the Submariner is renowned for its exceptional performance. Powered by Rolex’s in-house automatic movements, such as the Caliber 3135 and 3235, this watch offers unparalleled reliability and precision. The materials used, including stainless steel, Rolesor (a combination of steel and gold), and 18k gold, ensure that the Submariner can withstand the rigors of daily wear while maintaining its luster. The watch’s water resistance of up to 300 meters further underscores its versatility, whether you’re exploring the depths of the ocean or simply enjoying a night out.
What sets the Submariner apart is its attention to detail. The dial designs, available in classic black, vibrant blue, and distinctive green, are complemented by luminous markers that ensure readability in any light conditions. The unidirectional rotatable bezel and the Cyclops lens over the date window are not just practical features but also contribute to the Submariner’s unique character. Whether you’re drawn to its history, design, or functionality, the Rolex Submariner is a worthy contender for your first luxury watch.
- Movements: Automatic with Rolex Caliber 3135 or 3235
- Materials used: Stainless steel, Rolesor (steel and gold), 18k gold
- Dial designs and variations: Black, blue, green dials with luminous markers
- Case sizes and thicknesses: 40mm, 41mm; thickness varies slightly with models
- Crystal and caseback types: Sapphire crystal, closed caseback
- Water resistance: 300 meters
- Other complications: Date function with Cyclops lens
- Price range: $8,000 – $40,000 (pre-owned and retail)
OMEGA Seamaster
The OMEGA Seamaster is a collection that perfectly balances rugged durability with elegant design. It has earned its place in the annals of watchmaking history, not just as a tool for professional divers but also as a staple in the wardrobes of style-conscious individuals. The Seamaster’s versatility is one of its strongest points, with models ranging from the sportier Diver 300M to the more refined Aqua Terra. This collection is ideal for those who want a watch that can handle both the boardroom and the beach with equal aplomb.
What makes the Seamaster particularly appealing as a first luxury watch is its cutting-edge technology. OMEGA’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer movements are at the heart of these watches, offering outstanding precision, reliability, and resistance to magnetic fields. The materials used in the Seamaster range from stainless steel and titanium to ceramic and gold, providing options to suit different tastes and lifestyles. With water resistance capabilities varying from 150 meters to an impressive 1,200 meters in the OMEGA Planet Ocean models, this collection offers something for everyone, whether you’re an avid diver or simply appreciate the aesthetics of a dive watch.
The design elements of the Seamaster are equally compelling. The dials, often featuring wave patterns or teak-inspired textures, are both visually striking and functional. The watch’s sapphire crystal and exhibition casebacks not only protect the timepiece but also allow you to admire the intricate mechanics within. With additional features such as chronographs, GMT functions, and helium escape valves, the OMEGA Seamaster is a robust and stylish option for anyone looking to invest in their first luxury watch.
- Movements: Automatic with OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer movements
- Materials used: Stainless steel, titanium, ceramic, gold
- Dial designs and variations: Wave-pattern dials, ceramic, teak-pattern dials
- Case sizes and thicknesses: 38mm – 44mm; thickness varies by model
- Crystal and caseback types: Sapphire crystal, exhibition caseback
- Water resistance: 150 meters – 1,200 meters, depending on the model
- Other complications: Chronograph, GMT, helium escape valve
- Price range: $4,000 – $12,000 (pre-owned and retail)
Patek Philippe Calatrava
The Patek Philippe Calatrava is the embodiment of classic elegance and timeless design. Since its introduction in 1932, the Calatrava has set the standard for what a dress watch should be—simple, refined, and meticulously crafted. It is a watch that appeals to those who appreciate the subtleties of horological art, where every detail, from the sleek lines of the case to the understated dial, is executed with perfection. For those looking for their first luxury watch, the Calatrava offers a sense of sophistication that few other watches can match.
What truly sets the Calatrava apart is its movement. Patek Philippe is renowned for its in-house calibers, which are celebrated for their precision and reliability. Whether manual-winding or automatic, these movements are a testament to the Patek’s commitment to excellence. The materials used in the Calatrava are equally prestigious, with cases crafted from gold or platinum, ensuring that the watch not only looks elegant but also feels luxurious on the wrist.
In terms of design, the Calatrava favors minimalism. The dials, often in white, cream, or black, are clean and uncluttered, sometimes featuring guilloché patterns for added texture. The slim profile of the case makes it a comfortable wear, slipping easily under a shirt cuff, making it perfect for formal occasions. With water resistance of 30 meters, the Calatrava is designed primarily for dress rather than sport, but its understated elegance ensures it remains a versatile addition to any watch collection.
- Movements: Manual-winding or automatic with Patek Philippe movements
- Materials used: Gold, platinum
- Dial designs and variations: White, cream, black, guilloché patterns
- Case sizes and thicknesses: 34mm – 39mm; slim profile
- Crystal and caseback types: Sapphire crystal, exhibition caseback
- Water resistance: 30 meters
- Other complications: Date, small seconds
- Price range: $20,000 – $35,000 (pre-owned and retail)
Cartier Santos
The Cartier Santos is a watch with a rich history and a design that has stood the test of time. Originally created in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the watch was designed for ease of reading during flight. Today, the Santos has evolved into an icon of luxury watchmaking, combining Cartier’s signature elegance with a distinctive, modern aesthetic. For those seeking a first luxury watch that blends tradition with contemporary style, the Cartier Santos is an outstanding choice.
One of the defining features of the Santos is its square case, a design element that sets it apart from the more common round watch faces. The visible screws on the bezel add a touch of industrial chic, while the sleek lines and refined proportions give the watch an unmistakable air of sophistication. The Santos is available in a range of materials, including stainless steel, gold, and two-tone combinations, offering something to suit every taste.
In terms of functionality, the Santos is powered by Cartier’s in-house automatic movements, ensuring reliable timekeeping. The dials, typically featuring Roman numerals and a railroad track motif, are quintessentially Cartier, exuding a timeless elegance. With a water resistance of 100 meters, the Santos is practical enough for everyday wear, yet sophisticated enough to be worn on more formal occasions. Its versatility, combined with its rich history, makes the Cartier Santos a perfect choice for anyone venturing into the world of luxury watches.
- Movements: Automatic with Cartier Caliber 1847 MC
- Materials used: Stainless steel, gold, two-tone options
- Dial designs and variations: Roman numerals, silver or black dials
- Case sizes and thicknesses: Medium to large; varying thickness
- Crystal and caseback types: Sapphire crystal, closed or exhibition caseback
- Water resistance: 100 meters
- Other complications: Date, chronograph
- Price range: $6,000 – $10,000 (pre-owned and retail)
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is a game-changer in the world of luxury watches. Launched in 1972, it was the first luxury watch to be made from stainless steel, a bold move that redefined the industry’s approach to materials and design. The Royal Oak’s distinctive features, including its octagonal bezel, “Tapisserie” patterned dial, and integrated bracelet, make it one of the most recognizable watches in the world. For those who want their first luxury watch to make a bold statement, the Royal Oak is an excellent choice.
What sets the Royal Oak apart is not just its design but also its engineering. Audemars Piguet’s in-house movements, such as the Caliber 3120 and 4401, are masterpieces of horological innovation, providing exceptional accuracy and reliability. The use of high-quality materials, including stainless steel, rose gold, and titanium, ensures that the Royal Oak is as durable as it is striking. The watch’s water resistance of 50 meters, while not designed for deep diving, makes it suitable for everyday wear, including light water activities.
The Royal Oak’s design is both avant-garde and timeless, with its “Tapisserie” patterned dials available in a variety of colors, each adding a different dimension to the watch’s overall aesthetic. The exhibition caseback allows you to admire the intricate workings of the movement, a reminder of the craftsmanship that goes into every Audemars Piguet timepiece. Whether you’re drawn to its innovative design, its technical prowess, or its status as a cultural icon, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is a watch that stands out in any collection.
- Movements: Automatic with Audemars Piguet Caliber 3120 or 4401
- Materials used: Stainless steel, rose gold, titanium
- Dial designs and variations: Tapisserie patterned dials in various colors
- Case sizes and thicknesses: 37mm – 41mm; varying thickness
- Crystal and caseback types: Sapphire crystal, exhibition caseback
- Water resistance: 50 meters
- Other complications: Chronograph, perpetual calendar
- Price range: $20,000 – $60,000 (pre-owned and retail)
Where to Buy Your First Watch
As we said above, buying brand new from an official retailer is not the only option when it comes to acquiring your first watch. The main advantage in visiting a store is the whole hands-on experience. If you have only ever seen your dream watch on a computer screen, there is no way you can get an accurate sense of what it will look like when you are wearing it. Therefore, going to a physical brick and mortar outlet and trying it on lets you see if it is a good fit size-wise, or if you need to be looking at something a bit bigger or smaller for your wrist.
But authorized dealers are generally hard places to get yourself a bargain. Many manufacturers will not allow anything in the way of discounts on their products, and for that reason, buying your watch on the pre-owned market is something to seriously consider. A brand-new timepiece, like anything, will (in most instances) depreciate as soon as its first owner takes possession. So a pre-owned example – one that has already been through that initial price dip – will generally have a lower asking price.
I say “in most instances” because, as we’ve already seen, certain pre-owned models are now selling for far more than their official retail prices simply because it is virtually impossible to get hold of a new one. As an example, a stainless steel Rolex GMT-Master II retails for $9,250, direct from Rolex. I’ll save you a trip to your local dealers – you won’t be getting one there. The brand has been keeping supply so restricted that many retailers are not even adding new customer names to the waiting list because it is just getting too long. So, if you want to buy that particular watch, the pre-owned market is your only option – as is paying an average of about $20,000 for it.
Now, are all used/pre-owned watch dealers created equal? Absolutely not! This is now an industry worth hundreds of millions of dollars a year. That kind of money – in whatever industry – attracts its fair share of vagabonds and ne’er-do-wells, and none more so than with pre-owned watches. It is no real hyperbole anymore to say that choosing the right seller is just as important as choosing the right watch.
Highly advanced technologies are creating evermore convincing fakes, and it takes expert specialists to be able to identify the genuine from the counterfeit. It is vital that you only give your money to retailers with an established reputation and iron-clad authenticity guarantees. I cannot stress enough how important it is to make sure you do your homework wile researching the purchase of your first watch, as it will help you avoid some seriously costly mistakes.
Those are some of the main points to think about before committing yourself to the initial step in your watch buying journey. If you already have the ideal first watch in mind, all to the good, but if you are still deciding, make sure to take your time. You can’t really over-do on research – this is, after all, something that could well stay with you for the rest of your life.
Conclusion
In conclusion, embarking on the journey to purchase your first luxury watch is an exciting and rewarding experience. It’s a decision that should be made with careful consideration, keeping in mind not only your personal style and preferences but also practical factors such as budget and maintenance. Whether you lean towards a modern piece for its reliability or a vintage model for its timeless charm, the world of luxury watches offers something for everyone.
As you navigate the vast landscape of luxury timepieces, remember that buying a watch is as much about emotion as it is about practicality. It’s an investment in craftsmanship, history, and a little piece of art that you carry with you. Take the time to explore different styles, metals, and complications to find a watch that truly resonates with you. And don’t be afraid to ask questions, seek advice, and try on various models before making your final decision.
At Bob’s Watches, we understand the significance of this purchase and are committed to helping you find the perfect timepiece that suits your needs. With an extensive collection of luxury watches for sale, we offer both new and pre-owned options, ensuring that you have access to the finest selections. Trust us to guide you through the process, providing expert advice and ensuring that your first luxury watch is one you’ll cherish for years to come.
