Root beer reminds us of simpler times – days when you poured your drink over ice cream instead of ice cubes. But we had to grow up sometime, and thankfully, we’ve been treated with something just as sweet, the Rolex GMT Root Beer bezel.
Now, it may not be quite as satisfying as the drink of your childhood, but the Rolex Root Beer is undoubtedly a fun way to indulge in your luxury watch obsession. With that in mind, it probably goes without saying that not everyone agrees. Some Rolex GMT-Master enthusiasts find it hard to wrap their heads around the idea of brown creeping up any further than a leather strap. But, for those who love the root beer bezel, these watches are a real treat.
Rolex GMT-Master “Root Beer”
Rolex Root Beer GMT-Master Timeline
- 1970: Rolex introduces the first Root Beer GMT-Master, the ref. 1675/3
- 1989: Rolex introduces the GMT-Master II Root Beer ref. 16713
- 2006: Rolex discontinues Root Beer GMT-Master II
- 2018: Rolex re-introduces the Root Beer bezel in black and brown Cerachrom with the ref. 126711CHNR
Root Beer GMT References:
- 1675/3
- 16753
- 16713
- 126711CHNR (and 126715CHNR)
The First Root Beer GMT-Master ref. 1675/3
Root Beer GMT-Master 1675/3 Key Features
- Case Diameter: 40mm
- Materials: Stainless Steel & Yellow Gold
- Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, Date Display, GMT Functionality (2 Time Zones)
- Dial: Brown w/ Luminou Markers (Nipple Dial)
- Bezel: Bi-directional, Brown and Gold Aluminum Insert w/ 24-Hour Scale
- Crystal: Acrylic w/ Cyclops Lens
- Movement: Caliber 1575
- Strap/Bracelet: Oyster or Jubilee Bracelet
It’s fitting that we were first introduced to the root beer bezel in the 1970’s – it just feels vintage and oozes with funk, doesn’t it? While it is a cool choice, it’s also surprising. Rolex isn’t known for putting itself out there, so the root beer bezel is really one of those rare instances when the brand decided to lean into the times and release something a bit offbeat and different from the other models in its portfolio.
The Rolex GMT-Master – a popular pilot watch since the 1950’s – had largely been a handsome but utilitarian timepiece for the past two decades. Then around 1970, the Rolex 16753 was released as the first GMT-Master offered in Rolesor, which is the brand’s signature combination of stainless steel and gold. This watch had two variants, the first featuring a black dial and matching black bezel, and the second with a brown dial paired with a brown and gold bezel – the very first Root Beer GMT-Master.
Rolex had been producing solid gold versions of the GMT-Master fitted with brown dials with brown inserts since the very beginning of the collection and these all-brown bezels are often referred to as “Root Beer bezels” by some collectors, but it was actually the ref. 1675/3 that marked the first use of the bicolored, brown and gold bezel, and marks the true start of the Root Beer GMT. Other distinctive features of this watch include a matching brown dial, and gold hour markers with a shape that ultimately resulted in their ‘nipple dial’ nickname. Lastly, the Rolesor Root Beer GMT-Master was available with the option of either an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.
You can’t blame Rolex customers of the 1970s for falling in love with this watch, as it was the color mood of the decade. It was lovingly called the “Root Beer” bezel for its slight resemblance to a frothy mug of the famous soda drink of the same name. However, all of a sudden we saw it gaining new nicknames like “Tiger Eye” or “Tiger Augen” due to its resemblance to the precious stone by the same name – an effort to make the watch sound more elevated rather than trendy. Then Clint Eastwood got his hands on one and it was (un)officially the “Clint Eastwood” (it was his personal watch and he wore it in a number of his films, including his 1982 movie Firefox).
Today, these first iterations of the Root Beer GMT-Master are relatively hard to find. While the Rolex Root Beer 1675 had quite a long production period, the ref. 1675/3 had a shorter run and was always more limited in numbers. Additionally, it has been decades since these watches have been in production, and some examples have simply been lost to history. Prices for Root Beer GMT’s have also significantly increased in recent years and although they still haven’t reached the point of certain other vintage Rolex models, it is highly likely that they are only going to get more expensive and harder to find in the coming years.
The Second Generation: GMT-Master II ref. 16713
Root Beer GMT-Master II 16713
- Case Diameter: 40mm
- Materials: Stainless Steel & Yellow Gold
- Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, Date Display, GMT Functionality (3 Time Zones)
- Dial: Brown w/ Luminous Markers
- Bezel: Bi-directional, Brown and Gold Aluminum Insert w/ 24-Hour Scale
- Crystal: Sapphire w/ Cyclops Lens
- Movement: Caliber 3185
- Strap/Bracelet: Oyster or Jubilee Bracelet
Within the Rolex GMT-Master history, it’s important to note that in the mid-1980s, the brand launched its first-ever GMT-Master II. This upgraded GMT watch featured improvements like a new type of GMT movement where the 12-hour and 24-hour hands are independently adjustable, launching the brand’s iconic pilots watch into an entirely new era. During the first generation of the Rolex GMT-Master II, the brand also introduced a new bi-colored bezel insert, the black and red ‘Coke’ bezel.
It wasn’t until the late 1980s that the second generation of the GMT-Master II came about, leading Rolex to reintroduce the famous Root Beer bezel into the collection. Unlike the Pepsi and Coke bezels which were only available on the stainless steel models from this generation, the brown and gold Root Beer bezel was fitted to the two-tone mode, while the all-brown bezel insert was reserved for solid 18k yellow gold versions with matching brown dials.
Offering the widest variety of colors thus far, this generation is also noted as being the last GMT-Master II to feature aluminum bezel inserts before Rolex updated the collection to feature its proprietary Cerachrom ceramic bezels (more on that in the next section). But to get a closer look at this second generation of Rolex Root Beer GMT watches, let’s take a closer look at the reference 16713.
In addition to the new movement and sapphire crystal, one of the most noticeable differences between this generation of the Root Beer GMT and the previous one is the style of hour markers fitted to its brown dial. Historically, Rolex’s two-tone and solid gold GMT watches featured nipple dials. However, the brown dials fitted to the Rolex 16713 featured applied markers with yellow gold surrounds that are very similar in design to the ones currently in use by Rolex today.
Although a relatively small feature, this modern approach to the dial made it feel much more in-line with the rest of Rolex’s current product offerings and the ref. 16713 marked a noticeable aesthetic departure from the previous Rolex 16753 Root Beer. The Root Beer bezel version of the reference 16713 remained in production throughout the 1990s and early 2000s. However, Rolex eventually discontinued the Root Beer GMT-Master II in 2006 with many wondering if this unique watch would ever return to the collection.
The Comeback Kid: GMT-Master II ref. 126711CHNR
GMT-Master II 126711CHNR Key Features
- Case Diameter: 40mm
- Materials: Stainless Steel & Everose Gold
- Functions: Time w/ Running Seconds, Date Display, GMT Functionality (3 Time Zones)
- Dial: Black w/ Luminous Hour Markers
- Bezel: Bi-directional, Black and Brown Ceramic Insert w/ 24-Hour Scale
- Crystal: Sapphire w/ Cyclops Lens
- Movement: Caliber 3285
- Strap/Bracelet: OysterBracelet
When Rolex released its updated Root Beer bezel in 2018, it really reinvigorated collectors’ adoration for this unique timepiece. For one thing, we hadn’t seen a Root Beer GMT watch in more than a decade, and while it was never the most popular GMT model among collectors, it was appreciated for its unique aesthetic and the mark that it had made on the collection. So when Rolex re-introduced the Root Beer bezel in 2018, many were shocked to see it return.
The Rolex 126711, specifically the GMT-Master II Root Beer ref. 126711CHNR, emerged as a thoroughly modern interpretation of its predecessor. Trading the traditional yellow gold two-tone configuration for a combination of stainless steel and Everose gold created a warmer, more contemporary aesthetic. The most striking update appeared on the bidirectional bezel, where the previous half-brown, half-gold anodized aluminum was replaced with a sophisticated black and brown ceramic insert featuring recessed Everose gold numerals.
With that in mind, the biggest and most notable upgrade to the bezel is the use of Rolex’s proprietary ceramic material, which the brand calls Cerachrom. Looking at some of the earlier Root Beer bezels that were made out of aluminum, you can see that many of them have been subject to scratching and fading over the years.
By using this new, incredibly durable and fade-resistant ceramic material for the bezel, Rolex is able to ensure that these warm colors will stick around more-or-less indefinitely. The creation of the bi-color Root Beer bezel in ceramic is also notable because it is incredibly difficult to manufacture. Rolex could have gone with just an all-brown Cerachrom bezel, so the effort to go back to the bi-colored bezel but with more modern colors and materials is certainly noteworthy.
The dial also got a much-needed upgrade. Rather than being brown with a sunburst pattern like before, the dial is gloss black with applied Everose gold markers that are filled with blue-glowing Chromalight lume. Of course, there are still the same Mercedes hands, but these are also now crafted from Everose gold and finished in Chromalight.
Final Thoughts on the Rolex Root Beer: An Iconic Watch for Collectors
The Rolex Root Beer has proven to be a timeless model that resonates with collectors and enthusiasts alike. Its unique color scheme and rich history make it a standout piece in the Rolex lineup, blending elegance and boldness in a way that appeals to watch aficionados. Whether you’re drawn to its two-tone style, vintage charm, or modern updates, the Root Beer offers a distinctive look that captures the spirit of luxury watchmaking with a playful twist.
For collectors, the Root Beer represents an opportunity to own a piece of Rolex history. With its various iterations, from the GMT-Master ref. 1675/3 to the latest GMT-Master II models, each version brings its own appeal and rarity to the table. This variety allows collectors to find a model that speaks to their personal taste and collection goals. Over the years, the Root Beer has consistently held its value, making it a smart choice for those seeking both a beautiful watch and a worthy investment.
Ultimately, whether you’re a seasoned collector or a new enthusiast, the Rolex Root Beer offers something special for every watch lover. Its bold aesthetic and prestigious lineage provide lasting appeal, making it a model worth exploring. For those who appreciate a watch with character and charm, the Root Beer is a fitting addition to any collection, promising both style and substance for years to come.
When considering a Rolex Root Beer, purchasing from a trusted source like Bob’s Watches ensures both authenticity and peace of mind. As a leader in the pre-owned luxury watch market, Bob’s Watches offers a curated selection of Rolex Root Beer models, complete with detailed information on each piece’s history and condition. With their transparent buying process and commitment to customer satisfaction, Bob’s Watches provides collectors and first-time buyers alike with a reliable platform to find the perfect Root Beer model that suits their tastes and investment goals.
