Watches and Wonders 2024, the most anticipated tradeshow in the industry, is officially upon us. We finally know what top brands such as Rolex, Tudor, Patek, Cartier, and many more have been up to since last year’s salon. What is new, and which watches have sadly been discontinued for 2024? Find out everything you need to know about the best 2024 releases in watchmaking this year so far.
The Bob’s Watches staff gave us their best guesses about what we could expect during this year’s show. Were we spot on? Read our Watches & Wonders Predictions to find out.
Rolex Watches and Wonders 2024: New Releases
Rolex is experimenting with a new dial, bezel, and metal options for 2024. The black and grey ceramic bezel that debuted alongside the yellow gold and two-tone GMT Master II models has been added to the stainless steel model under reference 126710. While it doesn’t have the same all-black bezel as its predecessor the reference 116710, it does sport a similar green GMT hand and GMT Master II logo, setting it apart just enough from the rest of the Rolex portfolio.
Rolex is also building upon the 1908 collection released last year with a new 950 platinum model with a delicate “rice-grain” ice blue dial via ref. 52506. However, the Rolex Deepsea collection introduced a robust yellow-gold edition that might be the most polarizing new release. It keeps the same RLX titanium case back as the stainless steel model but is now furnished in full gold with a vibrant blue dial and ceramic bezel a la the gold Rolex Submariner watch. The difference is the newly minted ref. 136668LB is waterproof up to 12,800 feet and has a much larger 44mm case and a lacquered dial instead of a sunray finish.
Discontinued Rolex Watches 2024
Which watches did Rolex discontinue at Watches and Wonders this year? So far, one of the biggest bombshells was the white gold Daytona Ref. 126529LN – aka “Le Mans” – which had been in production for less than a year. The already ultra-exclusive model was released last summer to commemorate 100 years of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, complete with a vibrant red “100” on the Tachymeter bezel and charming Paul Newman-style square-tipped hashes on the sub-dials. We imagine it will become even harder to get our hands on now that it is no longer in production. Word at the tradeshow is that Rolex is gearing up to release a yellow-gold model to take its place.
Historically, the Rolex Datejust line has showcased some of the most fascinating Rolex motif dials, including the tapestry, Rolex jubilee, and, as of 2021, palm and fluted dials. For 2024, the topical palm dial and fluted bezel-inspired dial motifs have been discontinued. Rolex has also quietly said goodbye to the Rolex Yacht-Master II collection, leaving behind only the original Yacht-Master collection. The regatta chronograph debuted almost twenty years ago in 2007, building upon the foundation of the Yacht-Master collection by including a brand-new Chronograph movement and exclusive Ring Command Bezel, which was built directly into the movement itself. The Flyback function and regatta countdown were a wonder in Rolex watchmaking that, at least for now, are no longer in production.
Patek Philippe Watches and Wonders 2024: New Releases and Discontinued Watches
Patek Philippe already announced its discontinued watches for 2024 in early February alongside its annual price increases. The watches shelved this year included the collector-favorite stainless steel Aquanaut Time Travel ref. 5164A, which initially debuted back in 2011. However, the rose gold model, ref. 5164R appears to still be in production. Patek Philippe also discontinued a few editions of the Patek Philippe Nautilus collection, such as the ref. 5980/1R chronograph date and the references 5712R and 5712G Moon Phase in rose gold and white gold, respectively. Another notable watch the brand said goodbye to was the stunning ref. 5230P world time model with intricate guilloche dial.
For those who miss the discontinued Aquanaut Time Travel in stainless steel, a new white gold model has taken its place under ref. 5164G with a contemporary bluish/grey dial and rubber strap. The rose gold Nautilus ref. 5980/1R, discontinued earlier in the year, has also been replaced with white gold ref. 5980/60G-001 on a rather unorthodox denim-textured strap. Although unusual, that wasn’t the only denim-strapped white gold Patek we saw at Watches and Wonders 2024. The brand also released the previously limited-edition World Time ref. 5330G on the unique strap option. Last but certainly not least, the emblematic Ellipse is returning to its roots by once again featuring a matching metal bracelet via ref. 5738/1R-001.
Tudor Watches and Wonders 2024 New Releases
The big news coming from Tudor this year is the first Black Bay 58 GMT. For the first time in the dive watches’ history, the 39mm collection is available with a GMT function, swapping the uni-directional diver’s bezel for a bi-directional 24-hour bezel and featuring a traditional 4-hand GMT dial. Tudor has also outfitted the Tudor Black Bay collection with a Master Chronometer movement, a choice of either a metal bracelet or rubber strap, and a striking Coke bezel featuring a black and burgundy insert. 2024 also marks the first year the yellow gold Black Bay 58 is available on a matching gold bracelet.
Also new to the Tudor catalog are a trio of “monochrome” Black Bay watches featuring a stainless steel finish, black dial, and black bezel. Unlike other offerings in the Tudor portfolio, the Monochrome collection is not decorated with gilt accents. Tudor has also afforded these new releases a coveted Master Chronometer movement and the choice of either a 5-link bracelet, 3-link bracelet, or rubber strap.
Cartier Watches and Wonders 2024 Releases
Cartier challenges watchmaking norms by releasing the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind with a unique dial and movement. The limited-edition watch, produced in quantities of just 200, displays the time with traditional Cartier Roman numeral hour markers, but they are now positioned counterclockwise. Additionally, the manual-wind movement works in reverse, with the hands following the new orientation of the hour markers, hence the name “Rewind.” The French Maison also released several limited edition colorful lacquered Santos-Dumont watches in platinum/green, yellow gold/grey, and rose gold/blue.
Check back soon as more releases trickle in throughout the week.
