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Editorial

Rolex Datejust 31 Review: A Complete Buying Guide for Every Model

Paul Altieri

The Rolex Datejust 31 stands out as a refined, mid-size option, perfectly balancing classic Rolex style with a contemporary edge. Positioned between the smaller Lady-Datejust and larger Datejust models, the 31mm variant offers a versatile size that appeals to a wide audience, particularly women who seek both elegance and presence in their timepieces. Known for its diverse options, from dial colors to materials and bracelet types, the Datejust 31 continues to be a symbol of sophistication and versatility within Rolex’s lineup.

The dimensions grant a noticeable step-up in wrist presence over the 28mm model, and the Datejust 31 is fast becoming the most popular piece in the range among women, a highly versatile watch with a vast array of options.

These most recent introductions are, in fact, really only two different references, all a part of the modern ref. 278xxx series. Three vary simply in dial color, the fourth has been given a diamond bezel, and there are two bracelet types available. Below, we take a look in a bit more detail.

Current Rolex Datejust 31 Collection

Rolex Datejust 31 Stainless Steel Oyster Bracelet Roman Dial

Key Features:

  • All Models in White Rolesor (combination of Oystersteel and 18k white gold)
  • Dials available in Aubergine, Mint Green, White Lacquer, or Dark Grey
  • Aubergine model fitted with a diamond bezel and Oyster bracelet
  • Other versions fitted with a fluted bezel in 18k white gold
  • White Lacquer model on Oyster bracelet; Mint Green & Dark Grey models on Jubilee bracelet
  • Powered by Rolex Caliber 2236 with Syloxi hairspring for high precision and stability
  • New retail prices range from $8,300 to $16,500, while pre-owned prices can vary between $7,000 to $14,500, depending on the model, condition, and year.

Ref. 278274

The Rolex Datejust 31 ref. 278274 is a White Rolesor model, blending Oystersteel with 18k white gold. Its signature fluted bezel in white gold offers a refined, timeless look. The model comes with various dial options, such as mint green, white lacquer, and dark grey, all featuring baton or Roman numeral hour markers. It can be paired with either the sporty Oyster bracelet or the more intricate Jubilee bracelet, providing versatility in styling.

Powered by the Rolex Caliber 2236, the 278274 delivers exceptional timekeeping precision, thanks to its Syloxi hairspring, which enhances durability and resistance to shocks. The 31mm size makes it a perfect fit for those seeking a mid-sized luxury timepiece that balances elegance with a robust build. The watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters, ensuring practicality alongside its classic aesthetic, making it ideal for daily wear and formal occasions.

Ref. 278273

The Rolex 278273 brings together Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold in Rolex’s iconic Yellow Rolesor configuration, adding warmth to its luxurious two-tone design. Its dial options include champagne, white, and silver, with either Roman numerals or baton markers, offering flexibility for various looks.

This model’s elegance is complemented by its technical prowess, being equipped with the Rolex Caliber 2236. The blend of precious metal and durable steel makes the 278273 an enduring choice, perfect for formal settings or as a refined everyday watch.

Ref. 278271

The Rolex 278271 in Everose Rolesor blends 18k Everose gold and Oystersteel, creating a contemporary, feminine look. Dial colors like chocolate, pink, and white provide subtle sophistication, while Roman numeral or baton markers complete the aesthetic. Paired with either an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet, the watch combines modern flair with classic details.

This model also benefits from the Rolex Caliber 2236, delivering precise timekeeping. The soft hues of Everose gold, combined with the durable steel, make the 278271 an excellent choice for those seeking a warm, distinctive timepiece with enduring appeal.

Ref. 278240

The Rolex Datejust 31 ref. 278240, made entirely from Oystersteel, offers a sleek, modern design with a smooth bezel, diverging from the more traditional fluted option. Available in dials such as white, black, and blue, it pairs perfectly with the sporty Oyster bracelet for a contemporary look.

Although it shares the same Caliber 2236 for precision, the all-steel construction gives this model a clean, minimalist appeal. Its durability and 31mm size make it a versatile choice for those who want a practical yet stylish timepiece for everyday wear.

Ref. 278278

The Rolex 278278 is an opulent, all-gold model crafted entirely from 18k yellow gold. Featuring a fluted bezel and dial choices like champagne or white, this watch radiates luxury, with the option for diamond-set hour markers to add an extra touch of elegance.

While equipped with the Rolex Caliber 2236, which ensures precision and reliability, the standout feature of the 278278 is its bold, all-gold construction. It is perfect for those looking to make a statement with a timepiece that combines Rolex’s technical mastery with undeniable visual impact.

Rolex Datejust 31 Details

Rolex Datejust 31 Everose Rolesor Diamond Bezel

Across the updated Rolex Datejust 31 collection, the hands and hour markers are crafted from white gold. The baton-index models, such as the dark grey and mint green dials, use Rolex’s Chromalight luminescence for enhanced readability in low-light conditions, with small lume strips also applied to the hands.

The Oyster bracelet, found on some models like the white dial, features an Oysterclasp with an Easylink extension system, allowing for quick adjustments without tools. In contrast, the Jubilee bracelet has the concealed Crownclasp, offering a sleek, seamless look.

Each model maintains key Rolex elements, such as the Cyclops lens over the date display, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and the reliable Twinlock system, providing 100 meters of water resistance. Powered by the advanced Caliber 2236, these watches offer the perfect combination of Rolex’s timeless design with cutting-edge technology, ensuring durability and precision.

Datejust 31 Movement

They may not get the headlines, but the movements driving Rolex watches for women are, if anything, even more impressive than those in their larger models. They have the same job to perform, and the same accuracy standards to uphold, but have to achieve it all with far smaller components and proportionately tighter tolerances.

The calibers found inside previous generations of the women’s Datejust watches, the Cal. 21xx series, still hold the record for highest first time pass rate at the COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. The contemporary collection of the 28mm and 31mm Datejust models are all powered by the Cal. 2236, first released in 2014. Also found in the 37mm Yacht-Master and 34mm Pearlmaster, it was the first movement from Rolex to have a silicon hairspring.

Known as Syloxi, it has several advantages over traditional hairsprings. Silicon, as a material, doesn’t need lubrication and is unaffected by magnetic fields. As well as that, the spring is coated in an oxide layer, using DRIE (deep reacting ion etching), leaving it resistant to temperature changes as well. However, Rolex already had a proprietary hairspring material: Parachrom. Incredibly, it is thought that Syloxi outperforms even that, with the brand having come up with a way to make it more stable in different positions. At the moment, the Syloxi and blue Parachrom hairsprings are both in use, across various model ranges. Whether the silicon component will start to replace the older part remains to be seen.

A History of the Rolex Datejust 31

Rolex Datejust 31 White Rolesor Diamond Dial Fluted Bezel

The first Datejust, a 36mm model, was released in 1945. It would take more than a decade before the Lady-Datejust was introduced, in a tiny 26mm size. That was followed a couple of years later by the 31mm at the end of the 1950s. the 31mm model offered a welcome midway point between the especially petite smallest piece and the 34mm model which (for reasons only really known to Rolex themselves) has always been called simply the Date.

The 31mm Rolex Datejust would go on to become one of the bestselling versions of the watch among women, and still is today. In fact, there are more variations in the current catalog at this size than there are of the Lady-Datejust, which increased in size to 28mm in 2015.

The Options

Today, it is only the smallest two iterations in the Datejust range that are available in solid gold. The steel/gold mix of Rolesor is the closest the 34mm, 36mm, and 41mm pieces get. Consequently, that now leaves us with seven broad categories for the Datejust 31 model:

  • Stainless Steel
  • Yellow Rolesor
  • Everose Rolesor
  • White Rolesor
  • 18k All-Yellow Gold
  • 18k All-Everose Gold
  • 18k All White Gold

Among that, there are three distinct bezel types (smooth, fluted, and gem-set), along with three different bracelets (Oyster, Jubilee, and President), and a total of four different types of hour markers (batons, Roman numerals, Arabic numerals, gem-set). On top of all that are the enormous number of dials, in various colors and materials (mother of pearl, malachite, etc.) as well as full pavé diamonds.

For the most part, these are all transposable. A model in one of the seven metals can be had with any of the three bezels, any of the bracelets and with a dial of a certain color with a particular set of indexes. All of which explains why the Datejust 31-specific part of the Rolex website goes on for 32 pages.

However, there are a few exceptions, most of them reserving the more luxurious Rolex options for the top of the range pieces. For example, there are no stainless steel or Rolesor watches with pavé diamond dials. Similarly, there are no stainless steel fluted bezels in the collection anywhere – that type of bezel has always been in solid gold. It is the same story with the President bracelet, which is reserved only for the all-gold models. However, you can have a gemstone encrusted bezel on a Rolesor watch, the just-released aubergine model being one example.

All in all, it is relatively confusing, and makes the Datejust 31 about the most chameleonic creation in Rolex’s entire portfolio. There are so many possible combinations it would actually be a surprise to see two the same.

Vintage Datejust 31

Rolex Datejust 31 Stainless Steel White Roman Dial

The current Rolex Datejust 31 collection starts at a little under $7,000. That’s for an all steel, smooth bezel model. At the top end, an Everose piece, on a President bracelet and swamped in diamonds on every surface will set you back north of $40,000.

However, a quick search of the pre-owned market will soon show you how affordable older generations can be. Because the watch has always been one of Rolex’s strongest sellers, and as they have never restricted the supply of them as they do with some others in the catalog, there are plenty in circulation. That keeps prices extremely reasonable.

Even for the last reference family which ran up to 2019, the ref. 178xxx powered by the Cal. 2235 (identical save for the silicon hairspring), the price drops steeply. You can have the steel model for about $5,000. A steel model topped with a white gold fluted bezel is around $6,000. If you want the luxury of gold or Rolesor, these too can be had for less than $10,000, some with diamonds on the bezel or markers (or both). In short, it is a great deal of watch for not a lot of money.

The Datejust is often people’s first thought when they hear the name Rolex. It is a pure archetype of the brand, a beautiful blank canvas of a watch, onto which can be imparted any personality the wearer wants through their selection of dial, bezel and bracelet options.

The Rolex Datejust 31 is about the most popular version for women, a bolder statement than the classic Lady-Datejust but one that doesn’t overpower. The new models released this year carry on in the same vein, a varied foursome of new alternatives, destined to be widely admired. However, pre-owned and vintage pieces offer some of the best value for money and should certainly not to be ignored.

Rolex Datejust 31 White Rolesor Diamond Bezel 31mm Diamond Dial
Paul Altieri
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