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Cartier Panthere Review: Explore Its Timeless Design and Buying Tips

Paul Altieri

An epitome of luxurious and exquisite jewelry watches, the Cartier Panthere remains an in-demand timepiece. The watches from this collection are sought-after by collectors, fashionistas, and celebrities alike thanks to their iconic status. So if you’re planning to buy one for yourself, Bob’s Watches has the ultimate buying guide for you.

We’ve included design codes, prices, and other matters that might influence your purchase. Keep reading to learn more about this distinguished watch.

Cartier Panthere Ultimate Guide Yellow Gold

History of the Cartier Panthere

The Cartier Panthere is not the first instance of the panther motif for Cartier. A decade after the company made the first pilot watch, the Cartier Santos, Louis Cartier commissioned George Barbier to design artwork that combined feminine and feline motifs.

The result is a magnificent wristwatch with black onyx and diamonds — a gift for Jeanne Toussaint. Cartier referred to her as “La Panthere,” hence the panther theme. From then on, the regal animal became a cornerstone of the jewelry maker’s branding.

Still, the Cartier Panthere watch wouldn’t be commercially available for another few decades. The wristwatch was released in 1983, becoming a hit in the disco scene and fashion-forward era. It was available in several sizes, from mini to large. It also took inspiration from existing Cartier watches like the Santos, creating a recognizable timepiece. From the roman numeral dials to the sapphire crown, the Panthere became an instant Cartier classic.

Cartier Panthere Stainless Steel

Cartier Panthere: A Watch and a Piece of Jewelry

When it was first introduced in the 1980s, the Cartier Panthere quickly became an icon that many famous personalities wore. Many celebrities like Madonna, Pierce Brosnan, and Tina Turner wore the Panthere on their wrists, cementing its status as a fashionable jewelry watch that’s meant to be flaunted.

Through the 90s, the Cartier Panthère remained a status symbol, enduring the arrival of new fashion trends with its classic yet distinguished style. The watch continued to rise in fame until production ceased in 2004. By then, Cartier had solidified its reputation not only as a master of jewelry but also as a leader in watchmaking innovation, constantly pushing the boundaries of design and craftsmanship. With the Panthère out of production, demand surged on the resale market, further cementing its iconic status among collectors.

In the past two decades, Cartier has gone back to its watch-making roots. That not only included the return of the Panthere, but also other jewelry items that evoked the feline motif. This resurrection was hailed by fans and watch enthusiasts alike. Not only has the iconic timepiece returned, but there are also new upgrades like more metal finishes and limited edition designs. The only thing the Cartier removed from this model was the large watch case. It was part of their effort to market the Panthere as a ladies’ watch as well as a jewelry piece.

Cartier Panthere Diamond Bezel

Design Cues

Cartier watches are known for their unconventional and unique shapes. The Ballon Bleu, for example, seems like a deceptively simple circular watch except for the large sapphire cabochon set into the watch face. The Cartier Tank also has a distinct silhouette, although it’s not as unique now given how so many other watchmakers have attempted to replicate the design. The Panthere takes design codes from the Santos, making the collection another one of Cartier’s classic and timeless offerings.

Dials

The Panthere utilizes the sword hour, minute, and second hands present in most other Cartier timepieces. Roman numerals stand as hour markers, an enduring fixture present in the rest of the Cartier watch lineup. This isn’t always the case for the Panthere, as some limited edition watches had diamonds and the panther motif on the dials instead of the classic sword-and-Roman-numerals combination.

Square Case

Like the Cartier Santos, the Panthere has a square case with curved lugs, crown guards, and rounded corners. This gave the watch a fluid appearance and a more ergonomic feel, so it remains comfortable on the wrist even with its noticeable heft. The bezel, on the other hand, can be studded by diamonds or unadorned save for a few screws.

Bracelet

The most significant distinction between the Cartier Panthere and the Santos is the former’s five-link bracelet. On its own, the five-link bracelet is already a fine piece of jewelry. But the Panthere comes in this gorgeous and silky chain link that truly elevates the watch into a luxurious piece of jewelry.

Movements

The Panthere was released during a time of crisis in the watchmaking industry: quartz movements were taking over and making timepieces more accessible to the general public. Watches with mechanical movements were being replaced with battery-powered quartz, leading to many houses and watchmakers becoming irrelevant.

Cartier answered with the Panthere, which remained popular thanks to its design, exclusivity, and extremely accurate quartz movement. Even today, all Panthere watches carry a quartz movement. Purists may not like it, but the many people who loved the Panthere as a whole are more than enough to keep the collection profitable for the company.

Available Sizes

Before production stopped in 2004, the Cartier Panthère was available in four sizes: mini, small, medium, and large. Each case offered 30-meter water resistance, making the watch suitable for swimming and other water-related activities. In the 2017 revival of the Panthère, the large case was initially absent, likely as part of Cartier’s strategy to position the Panthère as a predominantly ladies’ watch. However, the large option is now available again, reaffirming the Panthère’s unisex appeal, consistent with other timepieces from the French Maison

Here are the three sizes available today:

  1. 21 mm x 25 mm (Mini)
  2. 22 mm x 30 mm (Small)
  3. 27 mm x 37 mm (Medium)
  4. 31mm x 42mm (Large)

Available Finishes

The Panthere comes in various precious metal finishes, adding to its luxurious appearance and price tag. The more simple ones are made of stainless steel, while the more extravagant items have gold and diamond on the bracelets and watches. Today, the Panthere comes in precious metal, two-tone, and all-gold. The common metal for two-tone bracelets is steel and stainless steel. On the other hand, the gold watches can come in white gold, yellow gold, and rose gold.

Aside from diamonds, the more opulent Panthere editions have black enamel panther spots — mimicking the dark fur of the regal animal. The new generation watches also have blue sapphire crowns and protective crystal watch faces.

Cartier Panthere Bracelet Watch

Cartier Panthere Watch Pricing

Given that Cartier is a luxury brand, it’s expected that the price of each watch is on the high end. So being able to buy one is a status symbol and a marker of exclusivity. On the lower end, the stainless steel Panthere watches retail from $3,700 to $9,600. The prices only increase from then on.

The watches with precious metal cases and bracelets can go for as low as $21,000 to as high as $40,000, with some rarer items going well above $100,000. On top of all these is HPI01096, with a white gold casing and bracelet, diamond insets, and black lacquer patterns.

Before You Buy

A Cartier watch is a great investment (and the Panthere is no different), especially if you’re considering it as a gift for a special lady in your life. When selecting this iconic timepiece, you’ll need to consider various factors such as design preferences and choice of precious metals. Before committing to a specific model, take into account the following key considerations:

Personal Style

Will the wearer be using it for special occasions or for everyday wear? Do they want something more subtle or something that shows off their personality? What precious metal do they like the most? Answering these questions will help you pick out the best watch for yourself or your loved one.

Budget

Buying a brand new Cartier Panthere will cost you at least $3,700, so it’s no small expense. If the watch you want to purchase is beyond your budget, you can wait for clearance sales or discounts. There is another option: buying from the pre-worn market. You’ll find sought-after Panthere watches on platforms like Bob’s Watches — all brand-new looking at much discounted prices.

Other Considerations

The stainless steel watches give off a more utilitarian aesthetic perfect for men and women who don’t want anything too flashy. On the other hand, the dainty rose gold is perfect for those who want a watch that exudes femininity and elegance, especially the ones in smaller sizes. Given that the Panthere is a unisex watch, these factors must be considered before you buy a timepiece.

Cartier Panthere Diamond Case

Shop Pre-Owned Cartier Panthere Bob’s Watches Today

Bob’s Watches is one of the most trusted platforms in the pre-worn watch market. Through our website, you can sell, buy, and trade timepieces from an array of watchmakers, including Cartier. We have a system to ensure that everything is authentic and sold according to real-life market value, so if you’re looking for a used Cartier Panthere in like-new condition, check out our catalog today! You can also contact us for more information.

Paul Altieri
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