While there are a few interesting tidbits in the new Submariner coffee table book by Nick Foulkes published by Wallpaper, widely hailed as the first-ever official Rolex book, the real revelations aren’t from the text itself but rather from the final few pages that look to be just catalog copy at first glance.
We’re talking about the index of Rolex Submariner references which unexpectedly reveals the production numbers for each model. While for many years collectors have had to rely on educated guesswork or relative estimations of rarity, the book offers up some surprising facts about each reference’s prevalence.
The most surprising figures are set to drastically alter the values of certain references that are now revealed to be either more scarce or more available than previously thought. Here’s a breakdown by reference for all pre-1980 Submariner models, along with quotes from our in-house experts on the most interesting among them:
Rolex 6204
The very first Submariner reference was released in 1953, and therefore the most coveted for many collectors, there were just 810 examples were produced according to the book. Anyone who is interested in the top vintage Submariner models has likely thumbed through a Rolex 6204 review at some point. As the first commercially available Submariner, sometimes called a “Bubble Back,” this reference established some of the signature features of the model that are so widely known as loved today, such as the black unidirectional bezel.
Rolex 6200
Collectors have long speculated that only about 300 examples of the 6200 were ever made in 1954, and it turns out they were bang on the money, with the book citing a figure of 303. As we review the Rolex 6200 it is worth noting that this is the model that earned the legendary “Big Crown” nickname, and it has a gilt Explorer-style dial, which now makes sense as the book reveals that the Submariner originally evolved from the Explorer.
Rolex 6205
Any good Rolex 6205 review will point out how significant this model number is for the Submariner collection as a whole. This reference is the first Submariner to break the 1,000 production mark, and the book reveals that 2,881 were produced in all. Released in 1954, this was the first Submariner reference to feature the so-called “Mercedes” hands, and also the first to have the name “Submariner” actually printed on the dial, and it is often known as the “Small Crown.”
Rolex 6538
Production #s for this model, released in 1956, shot up dramatically to 5,350, attesting to the popularity of Rolex’s new tool watch. And some of that can definitely be laid at the feet of the man who gives this reference its nickname – James Bond. As pointed out in a number of Rolex 6538 reviews, this reference was featured in the first Bond film, Dr. No, worn by Sean Connery, as well as From Russia with Love, Goldfinger and Thunderball. “Bond didn’t just wear the 6538; he immortalized it,” notes Paul Altieri, Founder and CEO of Bob’s Watches, and owner one of the world’s top Rolex collections. “This reference isn’t just a watch – it’s an icon of timeless cool.”
Rolex 5508
Production numbers for this reference, released in 1958, shot up even further to 9,000. Another “Small Crown” reference, it ushered in the mix of round and rectangular hour markers, along with the inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, that has since become standard on all Submariners. As we take a closer look at the Rolex 5508 you’ll note that the 5508 was also one of the last Submariner models to not have crown guards.
Rolex 5510
Many collectors were shocked to learn that the 5510 from 1958 is the second rarest Submariner reference ever (after the 6200), and it’s safe to say that in some quarters the 5510’s value has shot up overnight. The final “Big Crown” Sub ever produced, it was the very first to employ the calibre 1530 movement. “Rarity breeds reverence,” Altieri says. “The 5510’s six-month production run cemented its legacy as a grail among grails for collectors.”
Rolex 5512
The first Submariner to hit a five-figure production number, this reference from 1959 truly showed the James Bond effect, with a whopping 17,338 examples produced. The very first 40mm Submariner, a size the model would retain for the next 60 years, it was also the first Sub to feature crown guards, which it has sported ever since. As noted in Bob’s Watches Rolex 5512 review, the square crown guard versions of the 5512 are the most valuable; and no less than Steve McQueen, aka the “King of Cool,” wore this reference.
Rolex 5513
Submariner production exploded with the Rolex 5513 in 1962 to an impressive 151,449 units, a benchmark that would not be exceeded for nearly a quarter-century. Dropping in size back down to 38mm, its production numbers – revealed in the book to be much larger than expected – mean it is the most affordable vintage Submariner model and therefore very popular with younger collectors.
Rolex 1680
The 1680, released in 1969, revealed a shockingly high production run thanks to the book, with 111,226 examples produced in stainless steel. Again, Rolex would not hit six figures on a Sub again until the mid-1980s. As our Rolex 1680 buying guide mentions, this is the first Submariner to feature a date function, and it was controversial at the time. Rolex also made 5,765 examples of the 1680 in yellow gold, marking the Submariner’s debut as a status symbol.
Rolex 5514
The very first Submariner to feature a dial marked Comex, named for the French diving firm for whom it was made in 1969 – it was never available commercially – these have become amongst the most covetable Subs ever. Only 1,618 examples were produced in all, making it one of the rarest models out there. If you can find one, expect to pay a major premium.
Rolex 5517
And now we come to the legendary “Rolex MilSub 5517,” made in 1977 for the British military, and the third rarest Submariner ever with only 539 examples produced according to the book. Long highly sought after by collectors, it ushered in serrated edging on the bezel and featured spring bars to accommodate the iconic NATO strap. It also uniquely sported “sword” aka “gladiator” hands as well as the distinctive circled T logo. “There is just nothing cooler than the most military Submariner ever made,” notes Jared Paul Stern. “And it was even too rare for the likes of James Bond and Steve McQueen.”
Rolex 16800
The 16800, produced in 1979, was a smashing success with 81,694 examples made. For this reference, Rolex upgraded from acrylic to sapphire crystals as well as the calibre 3035 movement with its new quickset date function. As mentioned in our Rolex 16800 review, it was also the first Sub to have a depth rating of 300 meters, which remains the standard to this day. “The 16800 bridges two eras – vintage charm meets modern resilience,” Altieri says, “marking the dawn of sapphire-crystal durability.”
