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Rolex Datejust 69173 Review: A Buyer’s and Collector’s Guide

Paul Altieri

The Rolex 69173 stands as a testament to timeless elegance and precision engineering. This comprehensive guide explores the history, features, and collectibility of this iconic timepiece. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a first-time luxury watch buyer, our expert insights will help you navigate the world of the Rolex Datejust 69173.

History and Background of the Rolex Datejust 69173

History and Background of the Rolex Datejust 69173

The Datejust collection, launched in 1945, revolutionized the wristwatch industry as the first automatic chronometer to display the date on the dial. Over the decades, the Rolex Datejust has become synonymous with luxury, reliability, and timeless appeal. The Datejust 69173, introduced in the late 1970s and produced through the early 2000s, exemplifies these traits, featuring a two-tone combination of stainless steel and yellow gold.

This model’s classic 26mm size is perfectly suited for those who prefer a more understated and traditional look. The hallmark two-tone design of the 69173 – stainless steel and 18k yellow gold – adds a touch of luxury without being overly flashy, making it a popular choice for both casual and formal settings. Over the years, the 69173 has undergone subtle updates, but its core aesthetic remains unchanged, staying true to the timeless Datejust DNA.

The Rolex 69173 is part of the broader Lady Datejust collection, specifically designed for women who appreciate refined luxury in a more compact size. As one of the standout references within this collection, the 69173 shares the same heritage and precision engineering as its larger counterparts but is tailored to suit smaller wrists. The Lady Datejust series, including the 69173, offers an elegant combination of functionality and timeless style, making it an enduring favorite among women’s luxury watches.

Rolex Datejust 69173’s Design and Features: Elegance Meets Functionality

Rolex Datejust 69173's Design and Features: Elegance Meets Functionality

The Rolex Datejust 69173 is a masterclass in watchmaking, combining aesthetics with practicality. From its perfectly proportioned case to the iconic Cyclops lens, every element serves a purpose while contributing to the watch’s timeless appeal. Let’s explore the key design features that make the 69173 a true horological gem.

Case and Bezel

The 69173 boasts a compact 26mm case crafted from robust 904L stainless steel, making it ideal for smaller wrists or those who prefer a more understated presence. The case is topped with an 18k yellow gold fluted bezel, a hallmark of the Datejust line. This bezel not only adds a touch of luxury but also serves a functional purpose, originally designed to secure the crystal to the case.

The combination of steel and gold creates a striking visual contrast, embodying Rolex’s “Rolesor” concept. This two-tone design allows the 69173 to seamlessly transition from day to night, formal to casual, making it one of the most versatile watches in the luxury market.

Dial Options

One of the most captivating aspects of the 69173 is the variety of dial options available. The most popular choices include champagne, white, and silver, each offering a distinct character to the watch. The champagne dial, in particular, complements the two-tone case beautifully, creating a cohesive and luxurious appearance.

Collectors can choose between Roman numerals and baton markers for hour indicators. The Roman numeral dials exude a classic, sophisticated air, while baton markers offer a cleaner, more modern aesthetic. Some rare dials feature diamond hour markers, adding an extra layer of opulence to this already prestigious timepiece.

Bracelet and Clasp

The 69173 typically comes fitted with Rolex’s iconic Jubilee bracelet, a five-link design that perfectly balances comfort and elegance. Like the case, the bracelet features a two-tone construction, with outer links in stainless steel and center links in 18k yellow gold. This design continuity ensures a harmonious look from case to clasp.

Early models of the 69173 were equipped with the standard Oyster clasp, known for its robustness and ease of use. Later iterations introduced the hidden Crownclasp, which offers a sleeker profile and enhanced security. Both clasps feature Rolex’s signature easy-link extension system, allowing for minor adjustments to ensure a perfect fit.

Cyclops Date Window

A defining feature of the Datejust line, the Cyclops lens over the date window at 3 o’clock, is present on the 69173. This magnification lens, invented by Rolex in 1953, enlarges the date display by 2.5 times, significantly improving readability. The Cyclops has become so iconic that it’s often used to quickly identify a Rolex watch.

The date disc itself is available in black or matching the dial color, with some rare examples featuring red date numerals. The smooth transition of the date at midnight is a small but significant detail that showcases Rolex’s attention to precision.

Water Resistance

Despite its elegant appearance, the 69173 is no delicate flower. It features Rolex’s signature Oyster case, providing water resistance up to 100 meters (330 feet). This level of water resistance makes the watch suitable for swimming and snorkeling, though it’s not recommended for deep-sea diving.

The screw-down crown, featuring Rolex’s Twinlock double waterproofness system, contributes significantly to this water resistance. It’s a testament to Rolex’s commitment to creating watches that are not just beautiful, but also practical for everyday wear.

Rolex Datejust 69173’s Movement and Performance: Precision at Its Core

Rolex Datejust 69173's Movement and Performance: Precision at Its Core

At the heart of the Rolex Datejust 69173 beats the Caliber 2135, a self-winding automatic movement that exemplifies Rolex’s commitment to precision and reliability. This movement, developed in-house by Rolex, is a testament to the brand’s watchmaking expertise and innovation.

The Caliber 2135 is renowned for its accuracy, with a precision rate of -2/+2 seconds per day, exceeding the standards set by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) for chronometer certification. This level of precision ensures that the 69173 keeps time with remarkable consistency, a crucial factor for both everyday wear and collectibility.

One of the standout features of the Caliber 2135 is its power reserve of approximately 48 hours. This means the watch can be taken off for a weekend and still be ticking accurately when you return to it on Monday morning. The movement also incorporates Rolex’s signature perpetual rotor, which winds the mainspring efficiently through the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist.

Durability is another hallmark of Rolex movements, and the Caliber 2135 is no exception. It features a robust construction that can withstand the rigors of daily wear for decades with proper maintenance. The movement is protected by Rolex’s patented Paraflex shock absorbers, which enhance its resistance to shocks and impacts.

Rolex Datejust 69173’s Collectability and Value: A Timeless Investment

Rolex Datejust 69173's Collectability and Value: A Timeless Investment

The Rolex Datejust 69173 has firmly established itself as a coveted piece among watch collectors and enthusiasts. Its enduring design, coupled with Rolex’s reputation for quality, has made it a sought-after model in the vintage and pre-owned market. Let’s explore the factors that contribute to its collectability and value.

Why the Rolex Datejust 69173 is Popular Among Collectors

The 69173 appeals to collectors for several reasons. Its classic design embodies the essence of the Datejust line, making it a quintessential Rolex piece. The two-tone construction offers versatility, allowing it to complement various styles and occasions. Moreover, its smaller size has gained renewed appreciation in recent years, as trends have shifted towards more modest watch dimensions.

Collectors also value the 69173 for its historical significance. It represents a key period in Rolex’s history, bridging the gap between vintage and modern timepieces. This model often serves as an entry point for new collectors looking to own a piece of Rolex heritage without the premium commanded by older vintage models.

Factors Affecting the Collectability

Several factors influence the collectability and value of a Rolex Datejust 69173. The condition of the watch is paramount. Pieces in excellent condition, with minimal wear and all original parts, command higher prices. The presence of the original box and papers (known as “full set”) can significantly increase value, as it provides provenance and authenticity.

Dial variations play a crucial role in collectability. Some dial colors or configurations are rarer than others, making them more desirable to collectors. For instance, diamond-set dials or unusual color combinations can fetch premium prices. The condition of the dial is particularly important, as any damage or restoration can impact value.

The overall originality of the watch is another key factor. Collectors often prefer watches that have not been heavily polished or had parts replaced during servicing. A watch with its original finish and patina tells a story and is often more valuable than one that has been overly restored.

Price Trends and Current Market Value

The market value of the Rolex Datejust 69173 has shown steady appreciation over the years, reflecting its enduring popularity. As of 2024, prices for pre-owned 69173 models in good condition typically range from $4,000 to $7,000, depending on the specific configuration and condition.

Factors such as rare dials, full sets with original documentation, and exceptional condition can push prices higher. It’s worth noting that the market for luxury watches can be volatile, influenced by factors such as overall economic conditions, changing fashion trends, and supply availability.

Comparison of the 69173 to Similar Datejust Models

When considering the 69173, it’s useful to compare it to similar models in the Datejust line. The Rolex 16233, for instance, is a comparable two-tone model but features a larger 36mm case, appealing to those who prefer a more substantial wrist presence. The Rolex 68273, on the other hand, is a midsize option at 31mm, bridging the gap between the 69173 and larger models.

Each of these models has its own appeal, but the 69173 stands out for its classic proportions and versatility. Its size makes it suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes and style preferences, contributing to its enduring popularity among collectors.

Buying Guide: Tips for Purchasing a Rolex Datejust 69173

Buying Guide: Tips for Purchasing a Rolex Datejust 69173

Acquiring a Rolex Datejust 69173 can be an exciting yet daunting process, especially for first-time buyers. This guide will walk you through the key considerations to ensure you make an informed decision and find the perfect 69173 for your collection.

Key Factors to Consider when Buying a Pre-Owned 69173

When purchasing a pre-owned Rolex Datejust 69173, authenticity should be your primary concern. Always insist on seeing clear images of the watch, including close-ups of the dial, case back, and movement if possible. Authentic Rolex watches have a serial number engraved between the lugs at 6 o’clock, and a model number at 12 o’clock. These should match the paperwork if available.

Condition assessment is crucial. Examine the case for signs of excessive polishing, which can alter the original lines of the watch. The dial should be free from damage or unauthorized restoration. Pay close attention to the bracelet, checking for a stretch in the links, which can indicate wear.

The movement’s condition and service history are vital factors. A well-maintained 69173 should keep excellent time. If possible, ask for the service history. Regular servicing every 5-7 years is ideal, ensuring the watch’s longevity and performance.

Where to Buy

When it comes to purchasing a pre-owned Rolex Datejust 69173, choosing a reputable dealer is crucial. Bob’s Watches stands out as a trusted source in the luxury watch market. We offer a wide selection of authenticated Rolex watches, including the 69173, backed by our expert knowledge and commitment to transparency.

Buying from a reputable dealer like Bob’s Watches offers several advantages. Our watches undergo rigorous authentication processes, ensuring you’re getting a genuine Rolex. We also provide detailed condition reports, fair market pricing, and often offer warranties on pre-owned watches, giving you peace of mind with your purchase.

While online marketplaces may sometimes offer lower prices, they come with higher risks. The expertise and guarantees provided by established dealers are invaluable, especially when investing in a timepiece like the Rolex Datejust 69173.

Price Range: What to Expect in Different Conditions

The price of a Rolex Datejust 69173 can vary significantly based on its condition, provenance, and specific features. As of 2024, you can expect the following general price ranges:

  • Excellent Condition (little to no signs of wear, possibly full set): $6,000 – $8,000
  • Very Good Condition (minor signs of wear, may include box or papers): $5,000 – $6,500
  • Good Condition (noticeable wear, likely no box or papers): $4,000 – $5,500

Keep in mind that rare dial variants or models with original boxes and papers may command higher prices. Always factor in potential service costs if the watch hasn’t been recently maintained by a certified watchmaker.

Expert Opinion: Why We Love the Rolex Datejust 69173

Expert Opinion: Why We Love the Rolex Datejust 69173

At Bob’s Watches, we’ve had the privilege of handling countless luxury timepieces, and the Rolex Datejust 69173 consistently stands out as a remarkable watch. Its enduring appeal lies in its perfect balance of classic design and practical functionality, making it a favorite among our team of experts.

What truly sets the 69173 apart is its versatility. The two-tone design effortlessly transitions from boardroom to ballroom, casual outings to formal events. It’s a watch that can be your daily companion, never feeling out of place regardless of the setting. This adaptability is a hallmark of great design and a key reason for the model’s lasting popularity.

The durability of the 69173 is another aspect we greatly admire. Despite its elegant appearance, this watch is built to last. The combination of stainless steel and 18k gold not only looks beautiful but also ensures the watch can withstand the rigors of daily wear. Many of the 69173s we see come through our doors are decades old yet still keep excellent time and look stunning.

From an investment perspective, the Rolex 69173 presents an intriguing opportunity. Its timeless design and Rolex pedigree make it resistant to passing trends, while its relative affordability compared to larger Datejust models makes it accessible to a wider range of collectors. We’ve observed steady appreciation in well-maintained examples, particularly those with original boxes and papers.

Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of the Rolex Datejust 69173

Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of the Rolex Datejust 69173

As we’ve explored throughout this review, the Rolex Datejust 69173 is more than just a timepiece; it’s a horological icon that embodies the essence of Rolex’s commitment to excellence. Its perfect blend of stainless steel and yellow gold, coupled with the reliable Caliber 2135 movement, creates a watch that’s as functional as it is beautiful.

For collectors and enthusiasts, the 69173 offers a unique opportunity to own a piece of Rolex history. Its enduring design has remained relevant for decades, a testament to the model’s classic appeal. Whether you’re drawn to its elegant aesthetics, impressed by its technical prowess, or intrigued by its investment potential, the 69173 has something to offer every watch lover.

At Bob’s Watches, we’re passionate about connecting people with their perfect timepieces. If you’re considering adding a Rolex 69173 to your collection, we invite you to explore our carefully curated selection. Our team of experts is always ready to provide additional insights and guide you through the purchase process. Discover the timeless elegance of the Datejust 69173 with Bob’s Watches – your trusted partner in the world of luxury timepieces.

Paul Altieri
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