The Rolex Submariner and Tudor Submariner are two iconic dive watches that have significantly influenced the horological world. While sharing a common heritage, each has carved its own path, appealing to different segments of watch enthusiasts. This article provides an in-depth comparison of their histories, designs, technical specifications, notable models, and market positions to guide potential buyers.

The Shared Heritage of Underwater Legends

These two dive watch icons share more than a similar name - they emerge from the same watchmaking family, with Tudor originally created as a more accessible sister brand to Rolex. Their parallel development through the mid-20th century reveals how two watches with common DNA evolved to serve different purposes and audiences in the diving community.

Rolex Submariner: The Original Underwater Masterpiece

Introduced in 1953, the history of Rolex Submariner set the standard for dive watches with its robust design and reliable performance. Created during the golden age of underwater exploration, it emerged alongside crucial advances in SCUBA equipment and coincided with increasing public fascination with the underwater world. The Rolex 6204 history is significant in shaping the dive watch category, as early references like the Rolex 6204 and 6205 established the fundamental design language that continues to define dive watches today - featuring a highly legible dial, rotating timing bezel, and robust water resistance.

Over the decades, the Submariner evolved through carefully considered refinements rather than radical redesigns. The introduction of crown guards in the 1960s added protection, while the switch from gilt to matte dials improved legibility. Later innovations included sapphire crystals replacing acrylic, the addition of the Cyclops date magnifier on date models, and eventually the ceramic Cerachrom bezel that debuted in 2008. Throughout these changes, Rolex maintained the essential Submariner DNA while incorporating technological advancements that enhanced durability, legibility, and precision.

Tudor Submariner: The Military-Inspired Alternative

Launched in 1954 as the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, Tudor's version offered a more affordable alternative to the Rolex, utilizing outsourced movements while retaining high-quality components. The early Tudor Submariners shared many elements with their Rolex counterparts, including cases, crowns, and bracelets manufactured by Rolex. This shared heritage provided exceptional quality at a more accessible price point, attracting military organizations, including the French Marine Nationale, which adopted Tudor Submariners as standard issue for their divers.

The Tudor Submariner diverged more distinctly from its Rolex sibling in 1969 with the introduction of the signature "snowflake" hands and square hour markers - design elements created specifically to enhance underwater legibility. This distinctive aesthetic became a Tudor signature and contributed significantly to the brand's independent identity. Although discontinued in 1999, the Tudor Submariner legacy continues through the Tudor Black Bay line, which draws inspiration from the original Submariner design while incorporating modern developments and manufacturing techniques.

Design and Aesthetics: Form Follows Function

The design language of both the Rolex and Tudor Submariners exemplifies the principle that form follows function. While sharing core dive watch DNA, each developed distinct aesthetic elements that reflected their brand positioning and target audience. These differences extend from case proportions to dial details, creating distinct personalities despite their common heritage.

Case and Materials

The precisely engineered 41mm Oystersteel case of the Rolex defines its unmistakable presence on the wrist. This proprietary 904L steel alloy offers exceptional resistance to saltwater corrosion - a crucial consideration for a professional dive watch. While the case silhouette has evolved subtly over the decades with more pronounced crown guards and slightly broader lugs, modern versions maintain the essential profile established back in the 1950s.

In contrast, vintage Tudor models typically featured a more modest 39mm case that balanced robustness with everyday wearability. This slightly smaller dimension created a more versatile profile suitable for diverse wrist sizes while still maintaining professional dive watch capabilities. Instead of ceramic, Tudor models utilized aluminum bezel inserts that developed a distinctive patina over time, giving each watch a unique character that many collectors now prize.

• Rolex Submariner:
• 41mm Oystersteel (904L) case with corrosion-resistant properties
• Unidirectional rotatable bezel with Cerachrom ceramic insert
• 300m water resistance with Triplock crown system
• High-polish and brushed surface finishing
• Tudor Submariner:
• Typically, a 39mm stainless steel case
• Unidirectional rotating bezel with aluminum insert
• 200m water resistance with screw-down crown
• Primarily brushed finish for a utilitarian aesthetic

Dial and Hands

High-contrast dials with large luminescent hour markers define the Rolex aesthetic, ensuring exceptional readability in low-light conditions. The glossy black surface creates optimal contrast against the white gold surrounds of the hour markers, while precisely applied luminous material maintains visibility in the darkest underwater environments. The distinctive Mercedes-style handset has become an instantly recognizable signature of the collection.

A revolutionary design change occurred for Tudor in the late 1960s with the introduction of the now-famous snowflake hands and square hour markers. This distinctive approach - with the broad, angular hour hand resembling a snowflake - was developed specifically to address feedback from professional divers who needed better differentiation between hands underwater. These unique elements established a clear visual identity that distinguished Tudor from its more famous sibling.

• Rolex Submariner:
• High-contrast glossy dial with circular hour markers
• Mercedes-style handset with distinctive hour hand
• Date window with Cyclops lens on date models
• Chromalight luminescent material glowing blue in darkness
• Tudor Submariner:
• Matte dial with square hour markers (on Snowflake models)
• Distinctive snowflake hour hand for enhanced legibility
• More utilitarian aesthetic aligned with military use
• Initially tritium, later luminova illumination

Bracelet and Clasp

The robust Oyster bracelet on Rolex models incorporates the ingenious Glidelock clasp for easy micro-adjustments, significantly enhancing everyday comfort. This three-link design strikes an excellent balance between comfort and durability while maintaining the watch's professional aesthetic. Modern versions feature a sophisticated extension system allowing for 20mm of tool-free adjustment in 2mm increments, enabling precise sizing and the ability to wear the watch over a wetsuit.

Vintage Tudor models typically came equipped with an Oyster-style bracelet and straightforward folding clasp. Early examples shared many components with Rolex, while later versions utilized Tudor-specific designs that maintained the fundamental Oyster aesthetic. The simpler folding clasp offered security without the additional bulk of modern adjustment systems, reflecting both the era of production and Tudor's focus on essential functionality without unnecessary complications.

• Rolex Submariner:
• Oyster bracelet with three-link design
• Glidelock clasp allowing 20mm of tool-free adjustment
• Solid end links and screwed connections
• Polished center links on some modern references
• Tudor Submariner:
• Oyster-style bracelet with folding clasp
• Rivet construction on vintage models
• Folding safety catch
• Entirely brushed finish on most references

Technical Specifications: Performance Under Pressure

Beyond aesthetics, the technical differences between these two dive watches reveal their distinct market positioning and intended use cases. While sharing fundamental dive watch capabilities, Rolex and Tudor Submariners approached movement technology, water resistance, and additional features from different perspectives, balancing performance with accessibility.

Movement

At the heart of modern Rolex models beats the in-house Caliber 3230 (no-date) or Caliber 3235 (date), representing decades of watchmaking refinement. These sophisticated movements offer an impressive 70-hour power reserve and carry Superlative Chronometer certification, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy to within -2/+2 seconds per day. Key innovations include the Chronergy escapement that improves energy efficiency, blue Parachrom hairspring resistant to magnetic fields, and Paraflex shock absorbers that enhance impact protection.

Vintage Tudor models took a different approach, utilizing reliable ETA movements such as the Caliber 2824, which is known for robust performance and serviceability. This strategy reflected Tudor's core mission: combining external components manufactured to Rolex standards with sourced movements to create exceptional value. While lacking the proprietary innovations of modern Rolex calibers, these trusted Swiss movements provided dependable timekeeping suitable for professional use and contributed significantly to the more accessible price point that defined Tudor's market position.

• Rolex Submariner:
• In-house Caliber 3230 (no-date) or 3235 (date)
• 70-hour power reserve
• Superlative Chronometer certified (-2/+2 seconds per day)
• Paramagnetic components for enhanced performance
• Tudor Submariner:
• ETA movements (primarily Caliber 2824)
• Approximately 38-42 hour power reserve
• Reliable and easily serviceable
• Proven designs used across the industry

Water Resistance

Professional dive capabilities reach impressive depths with Rolex models, which boast 300 meters (1,000 feet) of water resistance. This substantial specification exceeds the needs of recreational diving and provides a considerable safety margin for professional use. The sophisticated Triplock crown system plays a crucial role in this capability, creating multiple sealed zones to prevent water ingress even under pressure. This robust waterproofing has been a hallmark of the collection since its early days, reinforcing its credentials as a genuine tool for underwater exploration.

A more modest but still highly capable 200 meters (660 feet) of water resistance characterized Tudor models, proving more than adequate for both recreational and professional diving needs. This slightly lower specification didn't prevent their extensive deployment by the French Navy and other military diving units, demonstrating their real-world diving credentials. The reduced depth rating aligned with Tudor's market position, providing excellent performance at a more accessible price point while still exceeding the requirements of most diving professionals.

• Rolex Submariner:
• 300m (1,000 feet) water resistance
• Triplock crown system with triple waterproofness
• Helium escape valve on Sea-Dweller models (Submariner sibling)
• Tested beyond stated depth ratings for safety margin
• Tudor Submariner:
• 200m (660 feet) water resistance
• Screw-down crown with waterproof gaskets
• Proven in professional military diving applications
• Exceeds requirements for recreational diving

Additional Features

Modern luxury meets technical innovation in the additional features found on contemporary Rolex watches. The sophisticated Triplock winding crown incorporates a triple waterproofness system, while scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with a Cyclops lens magnifies the date on date models. The Cerachrom ceramic bezel insert provides outstanding scratch resistance and color stability despite exposure to harsh saltwater and UV radiation. Advanced luminous material delivers up to eight hours of visibility in darkness, ensuring reliable readability in the most challenging diving conditions.

Period-appropriate materials defined the vintage Tudor approach, with features like screw-down crowns and acrylic crystals reflecting the technology available during their production era. The aluminum bezel inserts, while less scratch-resistant than modern ceramic alternatives, developed a distinctive character with age that collectors now prize. Early models featured tritium-luminous material, later transitioning to safer alternatives as regulations evolved. These authentic period details contribute to the charm and historical significance that make vintage Tudor models increasingly attractive to collectors.

• Rolex Submariner:
• Triplock crown with triple waterproofing system
• Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with Cyclops lens (on date models)
• Cerachrom ceramic bezel resistant to scratches and fading
• Chromalight luminescent material
• Tudor Submariner:
• Screw-down crown with waterproof seals
• Acrylic crystal (period-appropriate for vintage models)
• Aluminum bezel insert that develops character with age
• Tritium or Luminova illumination, depending on production era

Notable Models in Each Collection

Both brands produced various references over the decades that have become significant to collectors for different reasons. From groundbreaking originals to evolutionary improvements and distinctive design variations, these notable models tell the story of how each collection developed its identity.

Rolex Submariner Notable References

The Rolex Submariner lineup spans seven decades of evolution, with certain references standing out for their historical significance, design innovations, or collector desirability. The current production models represent the culmination of this development, offering refined versions of the original concept with thoroughly modern technology. While contemporary Submariners maintain exceptional performance and luxury credentials, vintage references have developed dedicated followings for their historical importance and charming period details.

The early references established the template, while transitional models from the 1960s and 1970s introduced features like crown guards and improved water resistance. The long-running Rolex 16610 (produced from 1988 to 2010) represents the final iteration of the aluminum bezel era and has become prized for its classical proportions. Modern references like the "Rolex Hulk" (116610LV) with its green dial and bezel created new collector categories, while the current 41mm models with ceramic bezels combine heritage aesthetics with cutting-edge materials. Each notable reference contributes to the Submariner's status as perhaps the definitive luxury dive watch.

• Submariner No-Date 124060: The quintessential dive watch with a clean, symmetrical dial. This current production of the Rolex 124060 model features the latest case dimensions, movement technology, and materials while maintaining the purest expression of the Submariner concept.
• Submariner Date 126610LN: Features a date complication with the signature Cyclops lens. The black dial and bezel combination on the Rolex 126610 represents the most versatile and widely recognized configuration of the modern Submariner.
• Submariner "Hulk" 116610LV: Renowned for its green dial and bezel, a favorite among collectors. The discontinued Rolex 116610 model (2010-2020) commanded significant premiums after production ended due to its distinctive color scheme and limited availability.
• Submariner "Kermit" 126610LV: The Combines a black dial with a green bezel, paying homage to the original "Rolex Kermit." This current model revives the black/green combination first seen in the 50th-anniversary reference 16610LV while incorporating modern case proportions.
• Submariner 16610: A classic model produced from 1988 to 2010, beloved for its timeless design. This reference represents the pinnacle of the aluminum bezel era and features the refined proportions that defined the Submariner for generations.

Tudor Submariner Notable References

The Tudor Submariner evolved through several significant references that developed its distinctive identity separate from its Rolex sibling. Earlier models closely resembled Rolex Submariners, sharing many components but utilizing different movements. The introduction of the "Snowflake" hands and square markers in 1969 marked a pivotal moment in establishing Tudor's independent design language. This evolution reflected both practical improvements for professional users and Tudor's gradual development of its own distinct character.

Military connections played a crucial role in Tudor Submariner history, with several references developed specifically for or adopted by armed forces. The French Marine Nationale relationship proved particularly significant, with specially commissioned pieces that now command substantial premiums among collectors. The final generation of Tudor Submariners, produced until 1999, represented the culmination of the collection's development before its discontinuation. These models now form the foundation for the modern Tudor Black Bay collection, which continues the Tudor dive watch legacy with contemporary updates.

• Reference 7922: Tudor's inaugural Submariner model, introduced in 1954. This historic first generation established the foundation for all Tudor dive watches and closely resembled early Rolex Submariners while utilizing more economical movements.
• Reference 7928: Featured crown guards and was widely used by the French Navy. This reference from the 1960s incorporated enhanced protection for the crown and established Tudor's relationship with military organizations.
• Reference 7016/0 "Snowflake": Introduced the distinctive square hour markers and "snowflake" hands. This revolutionary design change in 1969 significantly improved legibility underwater and established Tudor's independent aesthetic identity.
• Reference 9401/0: Known for its blue dial and bezel, it is favored by military divers. The distinctive blue colorway became particularly associated with French Navy use and represents one of the most sought-after Tudor Submariner variations.
• Reference 79090: One of the last Tudor Submariners produced before discontinuation, featuring a date function. This final generation combined classic Tudor Submariner design elements with updated manufacturing techniques before the model was retired in 1999.

Performance and Wearability: Daily Companions

Beyond specifications and heritage, how these watches perform on the wrist determines their practical value to wearers. Comfort, versatility, and daily usability shape the ownership experience of these dive watches beyond their underwater capabilities, revealing distinct characters that appeal to different types of watch enthusiasts.

On-Wrist Comfort

Modern Rolex designs blend bold presence with all-day wearability through thoughtful ergonomics. The 41mm case strikes an effective balance between wrist presence and comfort, while the tapering Oyster bracelet distributes weight evenly. Despite its substantial construction, the watch sits remarkably well on a variety of wrist sizes. The intelligent Glidelock extension system allows for precise adjustments throughout the day as temperature and activity levels change.

Vintage Tudor models offer a more understated wearing experience, thanks to their slightly smaller dimensions. The typical 39mm case diameter provides adequate presence without overwhelming smaller wrists, while the thinner profile slides more easily under shirt cuffs. Many enthusiasts find this moderate sizing particularly comfortable for extended wear, making these watches excellent companions for daily use. The reduced weight compared to modern Submariners further enhances the long-term wearing comfort.

Versatility

Few watches can match the remarkable adaptability of the Rolex Submariner in moving between environments. From formal occasions to underwater adventures, this icon transitions seamlessly between contexts, making it a truly versatile luxury sports watch. The balanced design and refined finishing allow it to complement both business attire and casual wear without ever seeming out of place. This chameleon-like quality explains much of the enduring popularity - it can serve admirably as the only watch in a collection.

A more distinctly tool-oriented character defines the Tudor approach. With its utilitarian finish and military heritage, anyone reviewing a Tudor dive watch knows the Tudor Submariner presents a more focused personality that appeals to those appreciating authentic dive watch history. The straightforward design language creates a timepiece that feels purposeful rather than precious - an honest tool rather than a status symbol. This distinctive character attracts enthusiasts who value the genuine connections to underwater exploration and military service that define Tudor's diving heritage.

Pricing, Availability, and Brand Positioning

The financial aspects of these watches reveal perhaps their most significant differences. Beyond design and technical considerations, the market positioning, pricing strategy, and contemporary availability create distinct ownership propositions that appeal to different segments of the watch-collecting community.

Rolex Submariner Pricing

Modern Submariner references represent a significant investment that combines luxury status with genuine professional capabilities. When asking how much is a Rolex, it is no surprise that retail prices have steadily increased over the years, reflecting both enhanced production quality and strategic market positioning. Limited availability has created a situation where many references command premiums on the secondary market, particularly for discontinued models with distinctive aesthetics like the "Hulk" with its green dial and bezel.

The pre-owned market reveals fascinating patterns in how different references are valued. While standard black models maintain strong value, special variants often appreciate substantially. Vintage references have seen dramatic price increases as collectors increasingly recognize their historical importance and charming period details. This established value retention and potential appreciation adds another dimension to the Submariner's appeal beyond its qualities as a precision instrument.

Retail Prices (MSRP) for Current Models:

• Submariner No-Date 124060: ~$9,100
• Submariner Date 126610LN: ~$10,250
• Two-Tone Submariner 126613LB ("Bluesy"): ~$15,600

Pre-Owned Market Prices:

• Submariner 16610 (Discontinued Aluminum Bezel Model): ~$9,000 to $12,000
• Submariner 116610LV ("Hulk") (Discontinued Green Model): ~$15,000 to $22,000
• Submariner 126610LV ("Kermit"): ~$13,000 to $15,000, often exceeding retail

Tudor Submariner Pricing

As a discontinued collection, Tudor Submariners exist exclusively in the vintage market, where prices reflect historical significance and collector enthusiasm rather than contemporary retail positioning. These watches have appreciated considerably from their original prices, with certain models commanding substantial premiums due to their distinctive features or military connections. The famed "Snowflake" references are particularly sought after, with well-preserved examples fetching impressive sums.

Market values vary dramatically based on condition, originality, and specific reference numbers. Models with documented military provenance, especially those issued to the French Navy, can command significant premiums over standard examples. While generally more accessible than vintage Rolex Submariners, well-preserved Tudor examples have appreciated substantially as collectors increasingly recognize their historical importance and unique character. This growing appreciation reflects a broader acknowledgment of Tudor's contributions to dive watch development.

Pre-Owned Market Prices (Since It's Discontinued):

• Tudor Submariner 7928: ~$8,000 to $15,000, depending on condition and rarity
• Tudor Submariner "Snowflake" 7016/0: ~$10,000 to $18,000, highly sought after by collectors
• Tudor Submariner 79090 (One of the Last Models Made): ~$5,000 to $8,000

Brand Positioning

As the crown jewel of the sports watch world, the Rolex Submariner occupies rarefied territory as both a functional diving instrument and an internationally recognized symbol of success. Its position at the pinnacle of luxury dive watches reflects decades of consistent quality and calculated marketing that established it as the archetypal high-end sports watch. The model serves simultaneously as a professional tool and prestigious accessory, combining genuine capability with luxury finishing and materials. This dual identity creates its unique appeal.

Heritage and authenticity define the Tudor Submariner's growing collector value. Originally conceived to provide Rolex quality at more accessible prices, these watches used outsourced movements within cases built to the same exacting standards as their more expensive siblings. The increasing appreciation stems from the recognition of their genuine history as professional tools used by military divers worldwide. This authentic heritage, combined with distinctive design elements like the Snowflake hands, has established these watches as desirable collectibles worthy of appreciation beyond their relationship to Rolex.

• Rolex Submariner:
• A status symbol and investment-grade luxury watch
• Known for prestige, craftsmanship, and brand recognition
• Modern production with state-of-the-art materials and movements
• Positioned as the definitive luxury dive watch
• Tudor Submariner:
• A historical, collector-favorite tool watch
• Offers an authentic military heritage and a distinct design language
• Exclusively vintage with all production ceased in 1999
• Increasingly appreciated for its own merits beyond Rolex association

Tudor vs Rolex Submariner: Choosing Your Dive Watch Icon

After examining these legendary timepieces in detail, your choice will ultimately depend on your preferences, budget, and collecting priorities. Both watches offer exceptional quality and heritage, but they appeal to different sensibilities within the dive watch category.

The Rolex Submariner stands as a luxury dive watch with modern innovations, superior materials, and high resale value. Its ceramic bezel, in-house movement, and refined finishing represent the cutting edge of contemporary watchmaking, while its iconic design has achieved universal recognition beyond the watch world.

The Tudor Submariner offers a discontinued but collectible dive watch, known for its military roots and relative affordability compared to Rolex. Its vintage character appeals to collectors who appreciate watches as historical artifacts with authentic stories about their era and use, while the distinctive snowflake hands create a unique aesthetic.

Choose the Rolex Submariner if you want a modern, high-end luxury dive watch with superior craftsmanship. For more detailed information about this collection, our comprehensive Rolex Submariner watch review provides valuable insights about its variations and specifications. Collectors who value Rolex's prestige and investment potential will find it transitions perfectly from sports to formal occasions.

At Bob's Watches, our curated selection of luxury watches for sale includes both vintage and modern Rolex Submariners, as well as collectible Tudor Submariners when available, allowing you to explore both of these horological icons firsthand.