The Navitimer is one of those instantly recognizable and iconic timepieces. First released in 1954 as a dedicated pilots' watch, the Breitling Navitimer is a highly capable chronograph with an integrated analog flight computer that allows aviators to calculate speed, distance, fuel consumption, rate of climb/descent, and more. With its slide-rule bezel, you can convert currencies, temperatures, and even do long division… talk about functionality.

However, despite being a highly functional industry-specific timepiece, the Breitling Navitimer is also incredibly popular among a diverse assortment of watch collectors - partly because of its rich history, and partly because of its iconic looks. There have also been some big-name celebrity sponsorships over the years, the most notable in modern history being John Travolta, who famously wears a Navitimer and flies his planes. Widely considered to be the flagship model among the various Breitling watches, the Navitimer is a true industry classic. If you're looking to add one of these purpose-built pilots' watches to your collection, this is everything that you need to know before you make your purchase.

Vintage Breitling Navitimer Watches

Released in 1954, the Breitling Navitimier has a long and rich history, packed full of an assortment of vintage references. The first edition was the ref. 809, which was powered by a manually-wound chronograph movement, and is now considered to be highly collectible. Among these first editions, you'll find beautiful vintage pieces like those with the coveted Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) emblem, gold-filled and solid gold models, and even some with reverse panda dials. Of course, there are also stainless steel versions, and while these are easier to find, they're just as sought after for their durability and vintage appeal. There are also some early and incredibly rare ref. 806 watches, which feature the Valjoux 72 - the same movement that you’ll find inside a number of highly collectible vintage Rolex Daytona references.

In 1969, things started to really change for the Navitimer, primarily because Breitling switched to the Caliber 11. This wasn't just an upgrade for the Navitimer, but a huge step for the industry as a whole. The Cal. 11 was a modular, automatic chronograph movement, featuring an integrated micro-rotor. This movement shifted the crown to the left (leaving the pushers on the right) and changed the Breilting Navitimer from a tri-compax layout to a bi-compax one. This iconic movement makes these late 1960s and 1970s watches incredibly popular among collectors, especially because the company went under during the quartz crisis.

Breitling tried to stay afloat during the crisis, even releasing a Breitling Navitimer LED Digital, but these efforts failed to stimulate sales. However, after Breitling went under, the Navitimer was interestingly still produced. While the Navitimer's that were produced during this time were signed with all Breitling parts, the dial was stripped of the Breitling name and replaced with "Sinn" - the German manufacturer Helmut Sinn who bought the Navitimer stock and the rights to the name when the company was sold. These watches aren't typically as sought after because they technically aren't Breitling timepieces, but they represent an incredibly interesting part of the brand's history and provide a great vintage look and feel.

The Modern Breitling Navitimer

After the quartz crisis, Breitling was bought by Ernest Schneider in 1982, who owned the watch manufacturer Sicura. It took some time, but the company eventually got back on its feet, and in the 1990s, reintroduced to the Breitling Navitimer.

The first modern Breitling Navitimer that was introduced to the market featured a reworked Valjoux 7750, which you’re probably rather familiar with since it’s the most frequently used automatic chronograph movement in the world. During this time, we also got new editions of the Navitimer like the Airborne with four sub-dials and the Old Navitimer with beautiful ties to that original 806 model. This watch is collectible for its resurgence in the market, but would quickly be outshined by its successor.

The most important addition to the modern Navitimer was the 01 collection featuring the new, in-house Breitling Caliber B01 movement. This automatic chronograph features a fully integrated architecture, COSC certification, and an impressive column-wheel mechanism. Today, the Breitling Navitimer 01 defines much of the collection, but we also got the addition of new Breitling movements like the updated and sophisticated B03 (which allows the wearer to measure two elapsed times simultaneously) and the B17 which sits inside the non-chronograph Automatic 41 watches that don’t feature sub-dials at all. Regardless of the specific model, all Breitling Navitimer watches boast a distinct design and have historical ties to the brand’s rich aviation heritage.

Breitling Navitimer Watch Collection

The Breitling Navitimer watch collection stands as an icon in aviation timepieces, blending form and function with its distinctive slide rule bezel. From the classic B01 to the modern Navitimer 8, and from the compact 32mm to the Worldtimer model, this collection offers a wide range of sizes and complications. Whether you’re drawn to the historic Cosmonaute, the elegant Montbrillant, or the vintage-inspired 1959 edition, the Navitimer line caters to diverse preferences while maintaining its aviation heritage and unmistakable design DNA.

Navitimer B01

The Navitimer B01 is the flagship model of the collection, featuring Breitling’s in-house B01 movement. This chronograph embodies the essence of the Navitimer line with its circular slide rule bezel, allowing pilots to perform various calculations. The B01 movement offers a 70-hour power reserve and chronometer certification, ensuring both precision and reliability.

Pros of the Navitimer B01 include its iconic design, high-quality in-house movement, and versatile functionality. The watch’s heritage and recognition among aviation enthusiasts are also significant advantages. However, potential cons might be its large size, which may not suit all wrists, and the complexity of the dial, which some may find overwhelming. Additionally, the premium pricing of this model could be a deterrent for some buyers.

• Case diameter: Typically 43mm or 46mm
• Materials: Stainless steel, 18k red gold, or two-tone
• Functions: Chronograph, date, slide rule
• Bezel: Bidirectional rotating bezel with circular slide rule
• Dial: Various colors available, usually with contrasting subdials
• Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or stainless steel bracelet
• Water resistance: 30 meters (3 bar)
• Movement: In-house Breitling Caliber 01 automatic movement
• Retail price range (new): $8,000 – $20,000+
• Used price range: $6,000 – $15,000+

Navitimer 8

The Navitimer 8 represents a modern interpretation of Breitling’s aviation heritage. While it maintains the spirit of the Navitimer line, it offers a cleaner, more streamlined design compared to its siblings. The Navitimer 8 typically features a bidirectional bezel with a pointer, providing a different aesthetic and functionality from the traditional slide rule bezel.

One of the main advantages of the Navitimer 8 is its versatility – it can transition easily from casual to formal settings. Its simplified design may appeal to those who find the traditional Navitimer too busy. However, purists might consider the departure from the classic Navitimer design a drawback. Some may also miss the slide rule functionality that’s synonymous with the Navitimer name.

• Case diameter: 41mm or 43mm
• Materials: Stainless steel or 18k red gold
• Functions: Chronograph, date (some models have day-date)
• Bezel: Bidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale
• Dial: Various colors, cleaner design compared to traditional Navitimer
• Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or stainless steel bracelet
• Water resistance: 100 meters (10 bar)
• Movement: Breitling Caliber 01 or modified ETA movements
• Used price range: $3,500 – $10,000+

Navitimer 32

The Navitimer 32 caters to those who prefer a smaller, more understated timepiece while still enjoying the Navitimer’s distinctive design. At 32mm, it’s particularly well-suited for women or men with smaller wrists. Despite its reduced size, the Navitimer 32 retains the iconic slide rule bezel and the overall aesthetic of its larger counterparts.

The compact size of the Navitimer 32 is its primary advantage, making it a comfortable option for daily wear. It also opens up the Navitimer line to a broader audience who may have found the traditional sizes too large. On the downside, the smaller size may make the slide rule bezel-less practical to use. Some may also find that the reduced dial space makes the watch face appear cluttered.

• Case diameter: 32mm
• Materials: Stainless steel, sometimes with diamond bezel options
• Functions: Time, date, slide rule
• Bezel: Bidirectional rotating bezel with circular slide rule
• Dial: Various colors, maintains classic Navitimer design
• Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or stainless steel bracelet
• Water resistance: 30 meters (3 bar)
• Movement: Breitling Caliber 27, a modified ETA movement
• Retail price range (new): $4,000 – $8,000+
• Used price range: $3,000 – $6,000+

Navitimer 36

The Navitimer 36 strikes a balance between the compact 32mm and the more traditional larger sizes in the collection. At 36mm, it offers a versatile option that can suit a wide range of wrist sizes and preferences. This model typically maintains the classic Navitimer design elements, including the slide rule bezel and the busy dial layout.

The 36mm size is a significant pro for this model, as it provides a more universal fit while still offering good legibility. It’s an excellent choice for those who want the full Navitimer experience in a more manageable size. However, some may find that the 36mm case is still too small for a tool watch, particularly those accustomed to larger aviation timepieces. The reduced size might also make the slide rule slightly more challenging to operate compared to larger models.

• Case diameter: 36mm
• Materials: Stainless steel, sometimes with gold or diamond options
• Functions: Time, date, slide rule
• Bezel: Bidirectional rotating bezel with circular slide rule
• Dial: Various colors, classic Navitimer layout
• Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or stainless steel bracelet
• Water resistance: 30 meters (3 bar)
• Movement: Breitling Caliber 17, based on ETA 2824-2
• Retail price range (new): $4,500 – $9,000+
• Used price range: $3,500 – $7,000+

Navitimer 41

The Navitimer 41 offers a slightly more compact alternative to the traditional 43mm or 46mm Navitimer models. At 41mm, it provides a good balance between presence on the wrist and wearability for a broader range of users. This model typically features all the hallmark Navitimer design elements, including the slide rule bezel and chronograph functions.

One of the main advantages of the Navitimer 41 is its versatility – it’s large enough to maintain the tool watch aesthetic but small enough to work as a daily wear piece for many users. The size also allows for excellent legibility without overwhelming smaller wrists. However, some aviation enthusiasts might prefer the larger sizes for better readability of the slide rule. Additionally, the 41mm size may still be too large for those who prefer more modest watch dimensions.

• Case diameter: 41mm
• Materials: Stainless steel, sometimes with gold options
• Functions: Chronograph, date, slide rule
• Bezel: Bidirectional rotating bezel with circular slide rule
• Dial: Various colors, classic Navitimer layout
• Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or stainless steel bracelet
• Water resistance: 30 meters (3 bar)
• Movement: Breitling Caliber 13, based on Valjoux 7750
• Retail price range (new): $6,000 – $12,000+
• Used price range: $4,500 – $9,000+

Automatic

The Navitimer Automatic models offer the iconic Navitimer design without the chronograph function, resulting in a cleaner and more understated dial. These watches retain the circular slide rule bezel, maintaining the aviation heritage of the collection. The simplified layout makes these models more versatile for everyday wear while still providing the computational capabilities that define the Navitimer line.

The main advantage of the Automatic models is their streamlined appearance, which may appeal to those who find the chronograph versions too busy. They also tend to be slimmer and more comfortable for all-day wear. However, the lack of chronograph functionality might be a drawback for purists or those who frequently use this feature. Some may also find that without the chronograph subdials, the watch loses some of its distinctive Navitimer character.

• Case diameter: Various sizes available
• Materials: Stainless steel, sometimes with gold options
• Functions: Time, date, slide rule (non-chronograph models)
• Bezel: Bidirectional rotating bezel with circular slide rule
• Dial: Various colors, simplified compared to chronograph models
• Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or stainless steel bracelet
• Water resistance: 30 meters (3 bar)
• Movement: Various Breitling automatic calibers
• Retail price range (new): $4,000 – $10,000+
• Used price range: $3,000 – $7,000+

Cosmonaute

The Navitimer Cosmonaute holds a special place in horological history as the first wrist-worn chronograph in space. Originally designed for astronaut Scott Carpenter in 1962, it features a unique 24-hour dial, making it particularly suited for space travel where the usual day/night cycle doesn’t apply. The Cosmonaute retains the slide rule bezel and chronograph functions of the standard Navitimer, combining space-age functionality with classic aviation design.

The primary appeal of the Cosmonaute lies in its historical significance and unique 24-hour display. It offers a distinct variation on the Navitimer theme that appeals to both space enthusiasts and watch collectors. However, the 24-hour dial can take some getting used to for everyday timekeeping. The manual wind movement, while traditional, may be less convenient for some users compared to automatic models. Additionally, as a specialty piece, it may command a premium price.

• Case diameter: Typically 43mm
• Materials: Stainless steel or limited edition materials
• Functions: 24-hour display, chronograph, slide rule
• Bezel: Bidirectional rotating bezel with circular slide rule
• Dial: Black, with a 24-hour format
• Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or stainless steel bracelet
• Water resistance: 30 meters (3 bar)
• Movement: Breitling Caliber B02 (manual-wind)
• Used price range: $6,000 – $12,000+

Montbrillant

The Navitimer Montbrillant, named after the street where Breitling had its workshop in the early 20th century, offers a slightly more refined take on the classic Navitimer design. While it retains core Navitimer elements like the slide rule bezel and chronograph functions, the Montbrillant often features more elegant dial designs and sometimes includes additional complications like moonphase displays or complete calendars.

The main advantage of the Montbrillant lies in its ability to bridge the gap between a tool watch and a dress watch. Its often more sophisticated appearance makes it suitable for formal occasions while still maintaining full Navitimer functionality. However, some may find the additional refinement detracts from the tool watch essence of the Navitimer. The inclusion of extra complications in some models can also lead to a busier dial and potentially reduced legibility.

• Case diameter: Various sizes, typically 38-47mm
• Materials: Stainless steel, gold, or two-tone
• Functions: Chronograph, date, some models with additional complications
• Bezel: Bidirectional rotating bezel with circular slide rule
• Dial: Various colors, often more refined than standard Navitimer
• Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or stainless steel bracelet
• Water resistance: 30 meters (3 bar)
• Movement: Various Breitling calibers
• Used price range: $4,000 – $15,000+

Navitimer 1959

The Navitimer 1959 is a faithful re-creation of the original 1959 Navitimer, offering vintage charm with modern reliability. It features a 40.9mm case, which is modest by modern standards but true to the original. The watch retains all the iconic elements of the Navitimer, including the slide rule bezel and chronograph functions, but with a distinct vintage aesthetic that sets it apart from other models in the current lineup.

The primary appeal of the Navitimer 1959 lies in its historical accuracy and vintage charm. It offers collectors and enthusiasts the opportunity to own a piece that’s nearly identical to the original without the concerns of wearing a decades-old timepiece. However, the vintage-inspired size may be too small for those accustomed to modern watch dimensions. The manual-wind movement, while traditional, might be less convenient for some users. Additionally, as a limited edition piece, it commands a significant price premium.

• Case diameter: 40.9mm
• Materials: Stainless steel or platinum (limited edition)
• Functions: Chronograph, slide rule
• Bezel: Bidirectional rotating bezel with circular slide rule
• Dial: Black, vintage-inspired design
• Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap
• Water resistance: 30 meters (3 bar)
• Movement: Breitling Caliber B09 (manual-wind)
• Retail price range (new): $8,000 – $40,000+ (platinum version)
• Used price range: $7,000 – $35,000+

Navitimer World

The Navitimer World expands on the traditional Navitimer design by incorporating a GMT function, allowing for easy tracking of a second-time zone. This addition makes it particularly useful for frequent travelers or those who regularly communicate across time zones. The watch retains the classic Navitimer elements, including the slide rule bezel and chronograph functions, but adds a 24-hour hand and scale for the GMT display.

The main advantage of the Navitimer World is its increased functionality, combining the computational capabilities of the Navitimer with the practicality of a GMT watch. This makes it a versatile tool for both aviators and international travelers. However, the additional GMT function does add to the complexity of an already busy dial, which some may find overwhelming. The larger 46mm case size, while providing excellent legibility, may be too substantial for those with smaller wrists or who prefer more modest watch dimensions.

• Case diameter: 46mm
• Materials: Stainless steel
• Functions: Chronograph, date, GMT (second time zone)
• Bezel: Bidirectional rotating bezel with circular slide rule
• Dial: Various colors, with an additional 24-hour scale
• Strap/Bracelet: Leather strap or stainless steel bracelet
• Water resistance: 30 meters (3 bar)
• Movement: Breitling Caliber 24 (based on Valjoux 7754)
• Used price range: $4,500 – $7,000+

Breitling Navitimer Buying and Collecting Guide

When considering the purchase of a Breitling Navitimer, several factors come into play, from where to buy and what to look for, to proper care and maintenance. This guide explores the pros and cons of authorized dealers versus online retailers, and new versus pre-owned models. It also provides tips for authentication and evaluation, guidance on choosing variants and special editions, and essential advice on maintaining your timepiece, including care for the innovative Breitlight® case and recommended service intervals.

Where to Buy

Authorized Breitling dealers offer the assurance of authenticity, full warranty coverage, and often a more personalized shopping experience. These authorized retailers have direct relationships with Breitling, ensuring access to the latest models and expert knowledge about the brand. However, prices at authorized dealers are typically higher, and selection may be limited to current models. Online retailers, on the other hand, can offer competitive prices and a wider selection, including discontinued models, but come with increased risks of counterfeits and potentially reduced warranty coverage.

When deciding between new and pre-owned Navitimer models, consider that new watches come with full warranty coverage and the satisfaction of being the first owner. However, they also come with a higher price tag and rapid initial depreciation. Pre-owned models can offer significant savings and access to discontinued or rare variants but may have limited or no warranty coverage. It’s crucial to thoroughly research the seller’s reputation and the watch’s condition when considering pre-owned options to ensure you’re getting an authentic timepiece in good working order.

What to Look For

When authenticating a Breitling Navitimer, pay close attention to the quality of engravings, the precision of the slide rule bezel, and the overall fit and finish of the watch. Genuine Navitimers have crisp, clear engravings and high-quality materials throughout. The movement should match the model specifications, and the serial number should be consistent with the watch’s purported age. When evaluating condition, check for signs of excessive wear, any damage to the crystal or case, and ensure all functions work smoothly.

When choosing a color variant or special edition Navitimer, consider both personal preference and potential future value. Classic color combinations like black or white dials with steel cases tend to hold their value well and offer versatile wearability. Limited editions or unique color variants may command higher prices and could potentially be appreciated, but may be less versatile for everyday wear. Consider your intended use for the watch – whether as a daily wearer, a special occasion piece, or an investment – when making your selection.

Care and Maintenance

The Breitlight® case, featured in some Navitimer models, is a proprietary high-tech material that’s lighter than titanium and extremely resistant to scratches and corrosion. To maintain its appearance, regularly clean the case with a soft cloth dampened with mild soap and water. Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals or abrasive materials. For watch bands, leather straps should be kept dry and conditioned occasionally, while metal bracelets can be cleaned with a soft brush and mild soap solution. Always rinse thoroughly with fresh water after exposure to salt water or chemicals.

Breitling recommends a complete service every 2-3 years for chronographs like the Navitimer to ensure optimal performance and water resistance. This typically involves a full disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly of the movement, as well as replacement of gaskets and water resistance testing. Between full services, it’s advisable to have the water-resistance checked annually if you frequently expose the watch to water. Regular winding (for manual models) or wearing (for automatics) helps keep the movement lubricated. Always ensure the crown is fully pushed in or screwed down to maintain water resistance during daily wear.

Maintaining your Breitling watch extends beyond regular cleaning and servicing. Store it in a cool, dry place when not worn, and consider using a watch winder for automatic models. Avoid adjusting the date between 9 PM and 3 AM to prevent damage to the movement. Regular accuracy checks against a reliable time source can help in maintaining the Breitling watch’s precision. While these tips are helpful, nothing replaces the expertise of a certified Breitling technician for comprehensive care and maintenance of your timepiece.

Conclusion

The Breitling Navitimer stands as a true icon in the world of aviation watches, offering a unique blend of form and function. Its signature circular slide rule bezel, chronograph capabilities, and robust construction make it an indispensable tool for pilots and aviation enthusiasts. With a wide range of sizes from 35mm to 46mm, and various complications including GMT and world time functions, the Navitimer caters to diverse preferences while maintaining its distinctive aesthetic and heritage.

The Navitimer's appeal extends far beyond the cockpit, attracting both athletes and collectors with its versatility and historical significance. Athletes appreciate its precision timing capabilities and durability, while collectors are drawn to its rich heritage and numerous limited editions. Whether you’re drawn to the classic B01 chronograph, the vintage-inspired 1959 re-edition, or the modern interpretations, the Navitimer offers a piece of horological history combined with contemporary watchmaking excellence.

For those intrigued by the Breitling Navitimer, we encourage you to explore the collection further. Whether you’re in the market for a new timepiece or simply appreciating horology, the Navitimer's diverse range has something to offer. For a wide selection of Breitling Navitimer for sale, consider visiting trusted retailers like Bob’s Watches. Their extensive inventory and expertise in luxury timepieces can help you find the perfect Navitimer to suit your style and needs, whether you’re a first-time buyer or a seasoned collector looking to expand your collection.