Whenever we talk about luxury watches, there are some brands that always come up quickly. Rolex would likely be the first name mentioned. Patek Philippe is sure to be hot on its heels. Brands like OMEGA, Longines, and Tissot are sure to follow soon after. But where would Audemars Piguet fall on that list? Considering Audemars Piguet is, along with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, regarded as one of the "Big Three", or "Holy Trinity" of Haute Horlogerie, AP, like VC, is one of those brands that has retained a true sense of exclusivity.

Audemars Piguet Key Details

• Founded in 1875.
• Headquarters in Le Brassus, Switzerland.
• Remains an independent family-owned business.
• Created the first minute-repeating movement for wristwatches in 1892.
• Developed the first skeleton watch in 1934
• Created the first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1957.
• The brand's most famous watch is the Royal Oak.
• Member of the "Holy Trinity" of watchmaking.

What Makes Audemars Piguet Unique in the Luxury Watch Market?

Audemars Piguet occupies an interesting position within the luxury watch industry. How is it possible for a brand to walk that line between international celebrity and family secret? Fans of the AP would mention it before Rolex, before Patek, before Omega, Hublot, Richard Mille, and all the rest. In fact, for the true die-hards, there is only AP.

Perhaps this strange, almost dichotomous character has come about through a unique series of events. Perhaps the role Audemars Piguet plays within the wider watchmaking landscape is to thank for it. You see, Patek Philippe is a name associated with an idea of luxury more than it is any particular model. Yes, the Nautilus is mega-famous. Yes, the Calatrava is a classic. But just uttering those four syllables can conjure an image of luxury beyond compare.

Audemars Piguet History & Popularity

When learn about the history of Audemars Piguet, it does not seem feasible to know about the brand without first learning of the AP Royal Oak. As such, the brand's most enduring icon acts as a gatekeeper to a wondrous world of watchmaking wizardry. Beyond the Royal Oak collection (which we'll cover in detail below), Audemars Piguet offers ladies' watches, concept watches, classically-styled timepieces, the new, highly controversial Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 series, and more. The current collection's diversity may come as a surprise to newcomers, but AP has been in the watchmaking game a long time, and a potted history of success and near-calamity is to thank for a bank of experience rivaled by few other marques in our industry.

Founded in 1875 by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, the brand established its reputation toward the end of the 19th century by devising award-winning movements that buoyed the brand's expansion throughout the western world. However, these rosy beginnings would soon be forgotten during a period of metaphorical and literal tragedy. The "Panic of 1907" saw the New York Stock exchange fall by almost 50% over a three-week period. It badly damaged AP's performance in the American market. World War I broke out in 1914, and following the fall of Russian Tsar Nicholas II, the brand's Russian interests were all but wiped out.

AP diversified its manufacturing interests during WWII in order to survive. Additionally, a loan of CHF 15,000 from the local chamber of trade helped propel the marque through a troubled period. But better days were yet to come. The 1950s saw a resurgence in global optimism, and under the stewardship of Georges Golay, an accomplished businessman, the brand recovered. It was during this time that the Le Brassus manufacture was expanded. The brand still calls this location home today.

Audemars Piguet Models Reviewed

Audemars Piguet Models include many standout timepieces that define the brand's legacy of innovation and craftsmanship. From the iconic Royal Oak and its timeless design to the bold and sporty Royal Oak Offshore, each model brings something unique to the table. Let’s dive into the details of these exceptional watches, including the sophisticated Code 11.59 and the artistic charm of the Millenary, to help you discover the perfect fit for your collection.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak revolutionized luxury watchmaking in 1972 with Gérald Genta's groundbreaking design. The first high-end sports watch in stainless steel featured an octagonal bezel secured by visible hexagonal screws, an integrated bracelet, and the now-iconic Tapisserie dial pattern. The original 5402ST "A-Series" established a design language that would influence watchmaking for decades.

Throughout its evolution, the Royal Oak has maintained its core identity while incorporating modern innovations. The collection spans various sizes, from the classic 39mm "Jumbo" to contemporary 41mm models, and complications ranging from time-only pieces to perpetual calendars. Each reference showcases AP's mastery of finishing, with perfectly aligned bevels and the signature Tapisserie dial patterns.

Recent developments include enhanced movements like the Calibre 7121, improved water resistance, and refined bracelet ergonomics. The collection's appeal extends through limited editions and precious metal variants, while maintaining exceptional attention to detail across all models. Strong market performance, particularly for vintage pieces and rare variants, reinforces the Royal Oak's position as AP's flagship collection.

Key Features and Market Information:

• Case Sizes: 37mm, 38mm, 39mm, 41mm, 42mm, 44mm

• Movement Options:

• Automatic calibers: 7121, 4302, 4404, 2950, 2972, 4401, 3132, 2968
• Chronograph: 4401, 2385
• Perpetual Calendar: 5134, 5133

• Materials:

• Stainless steel
• 18k gold (yellow, pink, white)
• Platinum
• Titanium
• Ceramic

• Special Features:

• Tapisserie dial patterns
• Integrated bracelet design
• 50m water resistance minimum
• Exhibition casebacks

• Market Position:

• Retail Price Range: $28,600 - $200,000+
• Pre-owned Price Range: $17,000 - $500,000+
• Popular References: 15202, 15500, 26240, 26574

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, launched in 1993, radically reinterpreted the Royal Oak design with a more robust 42mm case and enhanced water resistance. Created by Emmanuel Gueit, the collection earned the nickname "The Beast" for its bold proportions and aggressive styling, establishing new standards for luxury sports chronographs.

Modern Offshore models showcase AP's expertise in experimental materials and technical innovation, from ceramic and forged carbon to rubber components. The collection spans from ISO-certified diving watches with 300m water resistance to sophisticated chronographs, demonstrating AP's commitment to both functionality and luxury.

Recent updates have refined the case proportions and improved movement technology while maintaining the collection's bold character. Special editions and collaborations produce some of the most collectible references, while ceramic cases and advanced chronograph calibers demonstrate AP's ongoing technical evolution.

Key Features and Market Information:

• Case Sizes: 37mm, 42mm, 43mm, 44mm

• Movement Options:

• Chronograph: 3126/3840, 4401, 2885
• Automatic: 4302 
• Diving: 4308
• Tourbillon: 2947, 2967

• Materials:

• Stainless steel
• Forged carbon
• Ceramic
• Gold variants
• Titanium

• Special Features:

• Chronograph complications
• 300m water resistance (Diver models)
• Rubber straps and details
• Anti-magnetic protection

• Market Position:

• Retail Price Range: $30,500 - $300,000+
• Pre-owned Price Range: $25,000 - $400,000+
• Notable References: 26238, 26405, 15720

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept

Launched in 2002 to commemorate 30 years of the Royal Oak, the Concept series represents the most avant-garde approach to watchmaking at AP. The inaugural piece featured a distinctive case architecture in Alacrite 602, a super-alloy from aeronautics, establishing this collection as a platform for technical innovation and experimental design.

From the revolutionary acoustics in the Supersonnerie in the RD#1 to the ultra thin perpetual calendar in the RD#2, each release showcases groundbreaking developments. Modern Concept watches feature futuristic displays and innovative time-telling methods, while incorporating advanced materials like titanium, ceramic, and carbon composites to achieve technical objectives.

Limited production numbers and exceptional technical content position these pieces at the pinnacle of contemporary watchmaking. Each reference typically involves years of research, resulting in new patents and watchmaking solutions. The collection represents a vision for future haute horlogerie while maintaining connections to brand heritage.

Key Features and Market Information:

• Case Sizes: 38.5 - 44mm primarily

• Movement Options:

• Flying Tourbillon
• Supersonnerie
• GMT
• Laptimer
• Minute Repeater
• Perpetual calendar

• Materials:

• Titanium
• Carbon composites
• Ceramic
• Alacrite 602
• White gold, pink gold

• Special Features:

• Proprietary complications
• Advanced acoustics
• Innovative time displays
• Research-based development

• Market Position:

• Retail Price Range: $200,000 - $1,000,000+
• Pre-owned Price Range: $150,000 - $900,000+
• Limited Production Numbers

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59

Introduced in 2019, Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 marked a significant milestone as a new contemporary collection. The complex architecture features an octagonal middle case between a round bezel and caseback, while the double-curved sapphire crystal required new manufacturing techniques, demonstrating a commitment to innovation.

The collection launched with six distinct models, from time-only automatics to highly complicated pieces. New in-house calibers, including the integrated chronograph 4401, showcase advanced technical solutions and exceptional finishing visible through sapphire casebacks. The open-worked variants particularly demonstrate expertise in skeleton movement design.

Modern dial executions range from grand feu enamel to aventurine glass and lacquered fumé, offering fresh interpretations of traditional crafts. The consistent 41mm case dimensions ensure wearing comfort across all variants, while hand-finishing techniques create exceptional surface contrasts through polished bevels and brushed areas.

Key Features and Market Information:

• Case Size: 38mm, 41mm, 42mm

• Movement Options:

• Automatic: 4302, 5909, 5900, 1000
• Chronograph: 4401
• Tourbillon: 2950
• Minute Repeater: 2953
• Perpetual Calendar: 5134

• Materials:

• Stainless steel
• White gold
• Pink gold
• Two-tone combinations
• Ceramic

• Special Features:

• Complex case construction
• Double-curved crystal
• Openworked lugs
• Various dial techniques

• Market Position:

• Retail Price Range: $34,200 - $300,000+
• Pre-owned Price Range: $18,000 - $300,000+
• Notable References: 26393, 26399, 26395

Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars

The Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars collection, launched in 1991, represents classical watchmaking through traditional round cases and refined complications. Named after one of the founding members, this line served as a foundation for sophisticated horological achievements outside sports watches, featuring slim profiles and understated elegance in dimensions ranging from 27mm to 46mm.

These timepieces merge classical elements with contemporary interpretations through clean dial designs, applied gold markers, and finely crafted hands. The movements showcase exceptional standards of finishing, visible through sapphire casebacks, while each caliber receives extensive decoration using traditional techniques that highlight watchmaking heritage.

The collection historically featured significant complications, from minute repeaters to Equation of Time mechanisms. Though discontinued in recent years, these pieces remain important in the pre-owned market, offering collectors access to classical complications that contrast with modern sports models. The Grande Complication models particularly demonstrate mastery in traditional watchmaking.

Key Features and Market Information:

• Case Sizes: 27mm - 46mm

• Movement Options:

• Ultra-thin automatic
• Perpetual Calendar
• Minute Repeater
• Grande Complication
• Tourbillon

• Materials:

• Yellow gold
• Pink gold
• White gold
• Platinum

• Special Features:

• Traditional hand-finishing
• Complex complications
• Slim profiles
• Exhibition casebacks

• Market Position:

• Collection Discontinued
• Pre-owned Price Range: $10,000 - $500,000+
• Notable References: 25955, 26053, 26072

Audemars Piguet Edward Piguet

The Audemars Edward Piguet collection, introduced in the 1950s, embodies Art Deco elegance through distinctive rectangular case design. Movement manufacturing demonstrated exceptional skill in creating calibers suited for rectangular formats, while maintaining high chronometric standards through specialized architecture and careful execution.

The design emphasizes clean lines and balanced proportions in rectangular cases, some measuring 29mm by 39mm among other dimensions. Dial executions range from classic silvered surfaces to elaborate guilloche patterns, complemented by precisely proportioned hands and markers that suit the rectangular format perfectly. Platinum and gold variants, often enhanced by diamond setting, showcase this collection's refined character.

While no longer in production, these models represent an important chapter in design history. The collection proved how traditional rectangular watch design could embrace modernity while maintaining classical elegance. The pieces remain sought after by collectors who appreciate their unique contribution to watchmaking heritage.

Key Features and Market Information:

• Case Dimensions: 29mm x 39mm (typical)

• Movement Options:

• Manual wind
• Automatic
• Chronograph
• Perpetual Calendar

• Materials:

• Platinum
• Yellow gold
• White gold
• Pink gold

• Special Features:

• Art Deco design elements
• Curved case profiles
• Guilloche dials
• Diamond settings available

• Market Position:

• Collection Discontinued
• Pre-owned Price Range: $10,000 - $150,000+
• Notable References: 15121, 25911

Audemars Piguet Millenary

The Audemars Piguet Millenary collection, launched in 1995, showcases avant-garde design through distinctive oval cases. Drawing inspiration from Roman amphitheaters, the asymmetrical architecture creates a three-dimensional stage for mechanical displays. The stepped, multi-level dial construction reveals movement components while maintaining exceptional technical standards.

Modern variants incorporate innovative materials and finishing techniques, from frosted gold surfaces to carved mother-of-pearl dials. The oval case design, ranging from 39.5mm to 47mm, presents unique engineering challenges in water resistance and movement integration, all addressed through specialized construction methods and technical solutions.

The now discontinued collection appeals to enthusiasts seeking distinctive design combined with mechanical sophistication. Models range from time-only pieces to complex mechanisms like the Quadriennium calendar and minute repeaters. Each reference maintains its architectural identity while offering unique interpretations of traditional complications.

Key Features and Market Information:

• Case Sizes: 38mm - 47mm

• Movement Options:

• Hand-wound 4101
• Automatic
• Chronograph
• Tourbillon
• Calendar complications
• Minute Repeater
• Ladies' calibers

• Materials:

• Stainless steel
• Pink gold
• White gold
• Forged carbon

• Special Features:

• Oval case design
• Exposed movement elements
• Off-center dials
• Architectural construction

• Market Position:

• Collection discontinued
• Pre-owned Price Range: $5,000 - $100,000+
• Notable References: 26371, 77247

Audemars Piguet Huitième

The Huitième collection emerged in the 1980s as a significant milestone in chronograph development. Named after the French word for "eighth," these watches combined classical chronograph elements with modern case proportions, bridging traditional and contemporary design before the advent of the Royal Oak Offshore.

The automatic chronograph calibers, particularly the JLC-based 2126/2840, featured column wheel actuation and reliable performance. Cases measured 40-41mm in diameter, notably modern for their era, while dial layouts followed traditional chronograph arrangements with two or three subdials. The collection offered versatility through steel, gold, and two-tone versions.

Production ceased in the 1990s, yet these watches represent a crucial evolutionary step in chronograph development. The collection introduced design elements that would influence future models, while maintaining classical aesthetics and precise timekeeping capabilities that define high-end chronographs.

Key Features and Market Information:

• Case Size: 40-41mm

• Movement Options:

• Automatic chronograph caliber 2126/2840
• Day-date variants
• Specialized jumping date mechanisms

• Materials:

• Stainless steel
• Yellow gold, rose gold
• Two-tone combinations

• Special Features:

• Column wheel chronographs
• Integrated bracelets available
• Traditional chronograph layouts
• Screw-down crowns
• Moonphase complications

• Market Position:

• Collection Discontinued
• Pre-owned Price Range: $4,500 - $30,000+
• Notable References: 25644, 14593

Audemars Piguet [RE]Master

The [RE]Master collection, introduced in 2020, reinterprets historic chronographs from the 1940s and 1960's with modern engineering. The inaugural [RE]Master01 reimagines a rare 1940’s chronograph through contemporary proportions and technical improvements, while maintaining authentic vintage-inspired design elements.

Modern calibers enhance the original capabilities through automatic winding and flyback functionality. The collection features the caliber 4409, combining traditional column wheel chronograph architecture with contemporary reliability. Case design preserves historical elements like teardrop lugs and olive-shaped pushers while increasing size to 40mm for modern wear.

The most recent release in the collection, the [RE]Master02 pays tribute to the reference 5159, a 1960’s watch with an unusual asymmetrical case shape. Housed within the watch is the automatic calibre 7129, offering time-only functions.

Limited production of both these models ensures exclusivity for each carefully curated release. The collection demonstrates thoughtful updates to historical designs without compromising character, appealing to vintage enthusiasts and modern collectors alike. Each element balances heritage with contemporary luxury standards.

Key Features and Market Information:

• Case Size: 40mm, 41mm

• Movement Options:

• Automatic Caliber 4409 & 7129
• Integrated chronograph
• Flyback function
• Time-only

• Materials:

• Stainless steel
• Pink gold
• Platinum (special editions)
• Gold

• Special Features:

• Vintage-inspired design
• Modern chronograph functions
• Exhibition caseback
• Limited production
• Asymmetrical case shape 

• Market Position:

• [RE]Master01 - Discontinued
• [RE]Master02 - Retail Price: $47,200
• Pre-owned Price Range: $28,000 - $100,000+
• Notable References: 26595SR, 15240SG

Entry-level AP Watches: Which Audemars Piguet Model Should I Buy First?

When searching for your first AP watch, scouring the pre-owned market makes perfect sense. There are a great many tempting models available but be warned; prices are somewhat daunting. However, Audemars Piguet is a brand with the reputation to back up the numbers. There are plenty of diverse options within the catalog that cater to the first-timer and the seasoned collector. Take a look at some of the stand-out models from entry-level AP guide.

Popular Comparisons

Audemars Piguet vs Rolex

When comparing Audemars Piguet vs Rolex, watch enthusiasts delve into a debate between two titans of luxury horology, each brand bringing its unique heritage and strengths. Audemars Piguet, renowned for its intricate craftsmanship and the prestigious Royal Oak series, appeals to those who value innovation and complex watchmaking. On the other hand, Rolex is synonymous with enduring quality, reliability, and a classic aesthetic that arguably offers better brand recognition and a more conservative investment. Rolex watches are celebrated for their robustness and are often seen as a more accessible entry point into the world of luxury timepieces. In contrast, Audemars Piguet tends to attract collectors looking for exclusivity and avant-garde design. Both brands hold significant prestige in the watchmaking world, making the choice between them a reflection of personal taste and lifestyle rather than a matter of quality.

Audemars Piguet vs Patek

In the high echelons of watchmaking, the comparison between Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe touches on two distinct philosophies of luxury horology. Audemars Piguet is celebrated for its bold approach and the iconic Royal Oak series, which revolutionized the luxury watch industry with its distinctive octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. This brand often appeals to those who appreciate a blend of modern aesthetic and traditional craftsmanship. On the other hand, Patek Philippe is revered for its classical designs and exceptional complications, embodying an ethos of understated elegance and a legacy of watchmaking that caters to purists and connoisseurs. Patek Philippe's commitment to perpetuating haute horlogerie is evident in their meticulous attention to detail and the rarity of their timepieces, making them highly sought after in the collector's market. Choosing between these two is not just about selecting a watch; it's about deciding which legacy and craft resonate more with one's personal identity and horological values.

AP Watch vs Hublot

When considering Audemars Piguet (AP) and Hublot, you're looking at two brands that stand out in the luxury watch market for their distinctive designs and technical prowess, but cater to somewhat different tastes. Audemars Piguet is a pioneer of the luxury sports watch genre. Hublot, on the other hand, is known for its philosophy of "fusion art." It combines unusual materials like ceramic, carbon fiber, and rubber in ways that challenge traditional watchmaking norms. Hublot watches tend to be more avant-garde and flamboyant, making them a favorite among those who prefer modern, eye-catching pieces that make a statement. Both brands offer exceptional craftsmanship but cater to different aspects of luxury watch enthusiasm -AP leaning towards classical elegance with a twist, and Hublot towards innovative, contemporary boldness.

Piaget vs Audemars Piguet

Piaget and Audemars Piguet represent two highly esteemed facets of luxury watchmaking with distinct focal points. Piaget excels in the realm of ultra-thin watches, showcasing their mastery in merging sleek elegance with technical sophistication, often embellished with exquisite gem-setting that appeals to lovers of fine jewelry as well. Audemars Piguet, famed for its iconic Royal Oak series, emphasizes robust design combined with intricate watchmaking, appealing to those who appreciate a bold, architectural aesthetic in their timepieces. Both brands command respect in the horology community, yet cater to different preferences in style and watchmaking philosophy.