The Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16718 is a horological masterpiece that combines luxury with functionality. This review explores the watch’s rich history, distinctive features, and enduring appeal to watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. From its aviation roots to its status as a coveted timepiece, the Rolex 16718 represents the brand’s craftsmanship and design in the realm of luxury sports watches.
The History of the Rolex GMT-Master II and the Ref. 16718
The GMT-Master series traces its origins to the golden age of commercial aviation. Rolex developed the original GMT-Master in collaboration with Pan American Airways, creating a watch that allowed pilots to track multiple time zones simultaneously. This innovation addressed the growing need for a reliable timekeeping tool in the era of intercontinental flights.
As air travel evolved, so did the GMT-Master. The introduction of the GMT-Master II line marked a significant leap forward in the Rolex GMT-Master II history. The new series featured an independently adjustable hour hand, enhancing its dual time zone capabilities and cementing its status as the ultimate traveler’s watch.
In the 1980s, Rolex unveiled the ref. 16718, a stunning yellow-gold variation of the GMT-Master II. This release elevated the collection’s luxury appeal, transforming a tool watch into a symbol of success and refined taste. The GMT-Master II 16718 quickly became a favorite among watch connoisseurs who appreciated its blend of functionality and opulence.
Key Features of the Rolex 16718
The Rolex 16718 boasts an array of features that set it apart in the luxury watch market. From its robust construction to its precise movement and versatile design elements, every aspect of this timepiece reflects Rolex’s commitment to excellence. Let’s delve into the key attributes that make the 16718 a standout in the GMT-Master II collection.
Case and Material
The Rolex GMT-Master II 16718 showcases a classic 40mm case crafted entirely from 18k yellow gold. This precious metal construction not only exudes luxury but also offers exceptional durability and a warm, lustrous appearance that ages beautifully over time. The watch’s unidirectional rotatable bezel features inserts available in either black or brown, adding a touch of versatility to its design.
The use of solid gold throughout the case provides a substantial weight and presence on the wrist, distinguishing it from its stainless steel counterparts. Despite its luxurious material, the 16718 maintains the robust build quality expected from a Rolex sports watch, ensuring it can withstand the rigors of daily wear while retaining its elegant appearance.
Movement
At the heart of the Rolex 16718 beats the Caliber 3185 automatic movement, a testament to Rolex’s horological excellence. This self-winding mechanism features the signature independent GMT hand, allowing wearers to track a second time zone with ease and precision. The movement’s design ensures reliable timekeeping across various environments.
The Caliber 3185 is renowned for its accuracy and performance over time, a hallmark of Rolex’s commitment to precision. With a power reserve of approximately 50 hours, the movement provides dependable service for extended periods. Its robust construction and fine-tuning contribute to the watch’s overall longevity, making the 16718 not just a luxury item but a reliable timekeeping companion.
Bezel and GMT Functionality
The 24-hour bezel of the Rolex 16718 is a defining feature, enabling users to track an additional time zone effortlessly. By rotating the bezel and utilizing the GMT hand, wearers can monitor up to three time zones simultaneously, a function that remains invaluable for frequent travelers and international professionals.
Rolex offers the 16718 with either a black or brown bezel insert, each lending a distinct character to the watch. The black insert provides a classic, versatile look, while the brown option offers a warmer, more understated aesthetic. Both variations maintain excellent legibility, with clearly marked 24-hour graduations that complement the GMT hand’s functionality.
Dial and Hands
The Rolex GMT-Master II 16718 presents a range of dial options to suit various tastes. The classic black and brown dials offer timeless elegance, while the Serti dial, featuring diamond hour markers, adds an extra touch of luxury. Each dial variation maintains Rolex’s commitment to clarity and readability, with well-proportioned hands and markers.
Luminous hour markers and hands are a crucial feature of the 16718, ensuring easy readability in low-light conditions. The signature Mercedes hour hand, coupled with the distinctive GMT hand, allows for quick and accurate time reading. The date window at 3 o’clock, magnified by the Cyclops lens, further enhances the watch’s functionality without compromising its aesthetic balance.
Bracelet
The Rolex 16718 typically comes fitted with the iconic Oyster bracelet in matching 18k yellow gold. This three-link bracelet design offers a perfect blend of comfort and durability, with solid gold links that maintain their luster over time. The Oysterlock clasp ensures secure wear, while the Easylink comfort extension link allows for quick adjustments.
Some variations of the 16718 may feature the more ornate Jubilee bracelet, also crafted in 18k yellow gold. This five-link design provides a dressier alternative, appealing to those who prefer a more intricate bracelet aesthetic. Both bracelet options complement the watch’s luxurious appeal while offering the robust construction expected from a Rolex sports model.
Water Resistance
The Rolex 16718 boasts a water resistance rating of 100 meters (330 feet), making it suitable for everyday wear and light water activities. This level of water resistance is achieved through Rolex’s signature Triplock crown system and robust case construction, ensuring protection against moisture and dust.
While the 16718’s water resistance makes it more than capable of withstanding rain or the occasional splash, it’s worth noting that its precious metal construction may make owners hesitant to subject it to frequent water exposure. Nevertheless, this feature underscores the watch’s versatility as a luxury sports timepiece that can transition seamlessly from boardroom to casual weekend activities.
Variations and Customization
The Rolex GMT-Master II 16718 offers a range of dial and bezel variations to cater to diverse preferences. The classic black dial and bezel combination exudes timeless elegance, while the brown options provide a warmer, more subtle aesthetic. For those seeking extra opulence, the Serti dial variant, featuring diamond hour markers and sometimes precious stone indexes, elevates the watch’s luxury quotient.
Rolex has produced several diamond-set versions of the 16718, including models with diamond-paved dials and bezels. These special editions are highly sought after by collectors for their rarity and unparalleled luxury. Additionally, some limited production runs or regional editions may feature unique dial colors or configurations, adding to the model’s collectibility.
While factory customization options are limited, the aftermarket offers various possibilities for personalization. However, it’s crucial to note that aftermarket modifications can significantly impact the watch’s value and authenticity. Serious collectors and purists generally prefer unmodified examples, as an original condition is paramount in determining a vintage Rolex’s worth.
Collectibility and Market Value
The Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16718 has firmly established itself as a coveted piece among watch collectors and enthusiasts. Its combination of luxury, functionality, and historical significance contributes to its enduring appeal in the secondary market. Let’s explore the factors that make the 16718 a collector’s favorite and examine its market dynamics.
Why the Ref. 16718 is a Collector’s Favorite
The 16718’s all-gold construction sets it apart from its stainless steel siblings, appealing to collectors who appreciate the opulence of precious metals. Its status as a transitional model, bridging the gap between vintage and modern Rolex designs, adds to its allure. The watch’s iconic GMT functionality, coupled with its luxurious execution, makes it a versatile addition to any serious collection.
Collectors are drawn to the 16718 for its representation of a specific era in Rolex’s history. It embodies the bold, luxurious aesthetic of the 1980s and early 1990s while maintaining the robustness and functionality that Rolex is known for. This combination of traits makes it an excellent candidate for both investment-minded collectors and those who appreciate wearing a piece of horological history.
Factors Influencing Its Value
The value of a Rolex 16718 is influenced by several key factors. Condition is paramount, with well-preserved examples commanding premium prices. The presence of original box and papers significantly enhances value, as it provides provenance and completeness to the package. Dial variations also play a crucial role, with rare configurations like certain Serti dials or special editions being particularly sought after.
The watch’s overall originality is another critical factor. Examples with original bezels, unpolished cases, and factory-correct components tend to fetch higher prices. The bracelet condition and completeness (having all links) also impact value. Lastly, the watch’s service history can influence its worth, with properly maintained timepieces often being more desirable to discerning collectors.
Market Trends & Value Evolution
Over the years, the Rolex 16718 has seen a steady appreciation in value, reflecting the broader trend in vintage and neo-vintage luxury watches. As with many Rolex models, the 16718 experienced a significant uptick in market value during the luxury watch boom of the late 2010s and early 2020s. This increase was driven by growing interest in vintage Rolex models and a general surge in the popularity of luxury watches as alternative investments.
While market conditions can fluctuate, the 16718 has generally maintained strong value retention. Its relative rarity compared to stainless steel models and its appeal to both collectors and luxury watch enthusiasts contribute to its stable market position. As with any collectible, future value trends will depend on various factors, including overall market conditions, changing collector preferences, and the watch’s continued cultural relevance.
Comparisons with Other Rolex GMT-Master II Models
The Rolex 16718 occupies a unique position within the GMT-Master II lineup, particularly when compared to its stainless steel counterpart, the ref. 16710, and its modern successor, the ref. 116718LN. While sharing the core GMT functionality, these models differ significantly in materials, aesthetics, and market positioning.
Compared to the Rolex 16710, the ref. 16718 offers a more luxurious take on the GMT-Master II concept. The all-gold construction of the 16718 elevates it from a tool watch to a luxury statement piece, whereas the 16710’s stainless steel build emphasizes utility and versatility. This material difference also impacts wearability, with the 16718 having a noticeably heavier presence on the wrist.
The ref. 116718LN, introduced in the early 2000s, represents the modern evolution of the gold GMT-Master II. It features updated design elements like a Cerachrom ceramic bezel, a more robust case construction, and the newer generation Caliber 3186 movement. While the Rolex 116718 offers improved technical specifications, many collectors prefer the 16718 for its vintage charm and connection to Rolex’s heritage.
Pros and Cons of the Rolex 16718
When considering the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16718, it’s important to weigh its advantages and potential drawbacks. This balanced perspective helps potential buyers and collectors make informed decisions about this iconic timepiece. Let’s explore the pros and cons of the 16718, considering its design, functionality, and market position.
Pros of the Rolex 16718
The luxurious 18k yellow gold construction of the 16718 is undoubtedly one of its strongest selling points. This precious metal not only exudes opulence but also offers a warm, rich aesthetic that many find irresistible. The gold case and bracelet develop a beautiful patina over time, adding character and uniqueness to each piece.
The timeless design of the 16718, coupled with its dual time zone functionality, makes it a versatile watch suitable for both formal occasions and everyday wear. Its ability to track multiple time zones effortlessly maintains its relevance in today’s globalized world, appealing to frequent travelers and international professionals.
Strong collector interest in the 16718 contributes to its excellent value retention. As a discontinued model with historical significance, it has the potential for appreciation over time. This makes the 16718 not just a luxurious accessory but also a potentially sound investment for watch enthusiasts.
Cons of the Rolex 16718
The all-gold construction of the 16718, while luxurious, does come with higher maintenance costs compared to its stainless steel counterparts. Gold is softer than steel and more prone to scratches and dents, requiring more careful handling and potentially more frequent servicing to maintain its appearance.
At 40mm, the case size of the 16718 may be considered small by modern standards. While this size is classic and versatile, those accustomed to larger contemporary watches might find it lacking in wrist presence. However, this “con” is subjective and may actually be a pro for those who prefer more modest-sized timepieces.
Compared to current Rolex models, the 16718’s movement, while reliable, lacks some of the advanced features found in newer calibers. The absence of more recent innovations like Rolex’s Chronergy escapement or blue Parachrom hairspring might be a drawback for those seeking the latest in watchmaking technology.
Buying Tips for the Rolex 16718
When considering the purchase of a Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16718, several key factors should guide your decision-making process. As a pre-owned luxury timepiece, authenticity and condition are paramount. Begin by thoroughly researching the watch’s details, including correct dial configurations, bezel variations, and movement specifications for the production year you’re interested in.
Condition is crucial when buying pre-owned. Look for examples with minimal polishing, as over-polishing can alter case proportions and decrease value. Original parts, including the crown, crystal, and bezel insert, are highly desirable. Be wary of watches with aftermarket components, as these can significantly impact both value and collectibility.
The presence of the original box and papers can substantially increase a 16718’s value and desirability. These not only provide provenance but also contribute to the complete set that collectors prize. However, be prepared to pay a premium for watches that come with these original accessories.
When it comes to purchasing a Rolex 16718, choosing a reputable seller is crucial. Established dealers with a track record in luxury watches, such as Bob’s Watches, offer peace of mind through their expertise and authentication processes. Respected auction houses can also be good sources for rare or exceptionally well-preserved examples. Online platforms specializing in luxury watches can provide a wide selection, but ensure they have robust authentication measures in place.
The Enduring Legacy of the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16718
The Rolex GMT-Master II 16718 stands as a testament to Rolex’s ability to blend luxury with functionality. Its enduring appeal lies in its perfect balance of opulent design and practical utility, making it a favorite among collectors and watch enthusiasts alike. The 16718’s ability to seamlessly transition from a sophisticated business setting to a casual weekend getaway underscores its versatility and timeless design.
As we’ve explored, the 16718’s solid gold construction, iconic design, and dual time zone functionality contribute to its status as a highly collectible timepiece. Its place in Rolex’s storied history, bridging the gap between vintage and modern GMT-Master II models, ensures its continued relevance in the world of luxury watches. The watch’s value retention and potential for appreciation make it an attractive option for those looking to combine their passion for horology with a sound investment.
For those interested in owning a piece of horological history, Bob’s Watches offers a curated selection of Rolex 16718 for sale. Our team of experts ensures each timepiece meets the highest standards of authenticity and condition, providing you with confidence in your purchase. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a first-time luxury watch buyer, the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16718 offers an unparalleled combination of style, function, and investment potential.
